No.2 Kodak Supermatic and Flash?

[Chauncey Walden]

Or, a Flash Supermatic X.

[JOSEPH ANDERSON]

The Flash Supermatics With The F&m Slide Sync Will Give You X Sync. And
Yes That Is A Solenoid. You Could (i Think) Have Your Shutter Set For X Sync.
Or As Brian Said Use Bulbs
Joe A

[Athiril]

You'd have to figure out a way to make it fire the shutter and the strobe at the same time instead of delaying the flash as the SOLENOID is designed to do. Heh, Heh, Heh...spelled it right, didn't I!!!

Maybe add a solenoid before the flash as well.

Or couldnt I open the solenoid and cut out the coils and just wire it straight up?

Well I think 210mm would be better for portraits, so I'll just make sure I get an x-sync 210.

[BrianShaw]

It seems from your post that you need a refresher course in what a solenoid is/does. In simplest terms a solenoid is a electromechanical device that creates a mechanical movement. The electro part is the coils, that acts by connection of a battery/switch (which it seems you don't have) and the mechanical part is the wire/hook that is connected to your shutter. It is an electromagnet.

Please re-read some of the earlier posts and conduct the "experiment" suggested by Anscojohn. You'll see a demonstration of what the solenoid/synchronizer does.

You cannot "cut the coils out" and get X-synch. You'll get... drum roll, please... a metal tube that is no longer a solenoid and no longer capable of tripping the shutter.

[Wade D]

I have the same lens and shutter and it won't sync to fire a strobe. The later Supermatic X shutter will do it though. It has to do with the internal timing of the contacts which I don't really understand.

[Athiril]

Ah right oh, I had just the simplest form of it in my head

I'll rig up a small piece of metal on the lens barrel that sticks up, will put it at the position the shutter level is at when the shutter is fully open and a piece of foil or wire through the shutter level to brush it as the shutter level moves past it, just have to be careful not to zap myself on it like my home made cord for the toshiba flash i had.. though the trigger voltage is low on the sunpaks im using versus high on the toshiba so it shouldnt be as stingy if I do.

[BrianShaw]

I really admire your persistence... but why not buy a 127 or 135 Optar in Graphex shutter? They are seen often on ebay for quite reasonable prices. You could swap it out with the lens/shutter you currently have in just a few minutes. The solenoid would become redundant and could be removed also. Firing the shutter would be via cable release and firing the strobe would be via the synch. Could be a lot quicker, easier and more reliable than jury-rigging what you now have.

[Athiril]

Well shipping price is usually unreasonably high, sometimes I get good prices though depending on the seller, like $20 US for the shipping, and that also means waiting for a number of weeks before being able to shoot any models with it

Though I guess it is a bit on the short side for that kinda thing, so ideally looking for a longer lens rather than 'fixing' this one properly for flash sync, though have taken a few shots with it already. Luckily I had remembered to bring my dark change bag!

[BrianShaw]

I understand the shipping price issue; shipping is very expensive these days. I don't know who this person is, but if I were in your shoes I'd make him an offer. There's no telling if the shutter needs an overhaul or not but the glass looks good and the price isn't bad either. I have no idea how much it would cost to mail from LA to OZ, though.

Good luck in whichever solution you try!

http://cgi.ebay.com/Graflex-135-4-7-...3286.m20.l1116

[Athiril]

300mm is what would suit my shooting style for models for the equivalent of what Im using now, but I think the depth of field might be a tad thin, but then if I use something wider, the background will be smaller/further away... hmm hmm... will try a 210.

thanks