X-ray Film example and comparison.

**Gene McCluney** · 19-Apr-2009, 17:23

I was doing some film/developer testing today, and I thought some of you might enjoy a comparison between Standard camera film and Xray film shot in a camera. The Fomapan 200 shot was on 5x7, exposed at an ISO of 100 and developed for 4.5 minutes in Xtol straight in deep tank. The X-ray shot was shot on 8x10 Blue Sensitive Xray film exposed at an ISO of 200 and developed in Xtol straight for 4 minutes in deep tank. These are not meant to be "art" rather they are just exposure and tone examples. The first thumbnail on the left is the Fomapan 200.

**Jason Greenberg Motamedi** · 19-Apr-2009, 19:32

Nice work Gene!

I have been messing with green sensitive x-ray film. I have attached an early 8x10 image which was developed in D76 1:3 for about six minutes. As perhaps you can see from the scan, I didn't manage to completely tame the contrast with this developer, so following Chris Nze and Jim Galli's advice, I switched to Rodinal. I am currently developing green sensitive Xray film (50 ISO) for Kallitypes in Rodinal 1:200 for about six minutes. This is working very well for me, and at 58¢ a sheet for 11x14 I really can't complain!

Unfortunately I can't scan my more recent work since since they are all 11x14 and larger than my scanner...

**Brian Ellis** · 19-Apr-2009, 19:52

That's the first xray film I've seen with square corners, what I've seen (not all that much, just a few boxes from Freestyle years ago) had rounded corners. And your results are much better than mine, I couldn't get the contrast than you've gotten.

**Gene McCluney** · 19-Apr-2009, 20:17

Originally Posted by Brian Ellis

That's the first xray film I've seen with square corners, what I've seen (not all that much, just a few boxes from Freestyle years ago) had rounded corners. And your results are much better than mine, I couldn't get the contrast than you've gotten.

My boxes of film have round corners on the films, but I cropped my scan to just the image, as my tape I tape the neg down to the scanner glass would show otherwise.

**Gene McCluney** · 19-Apr-2009, 20:20

Originally Posted by Jason Greenberg Motamedi

Nice work Gene!

I have been messing with green sensitive x-ray film. I have attached an early 8x10 image which was developed in D76 1:3 for about six minutes. As perhaps you can see from the scan, I didn't manage to completely tame the contrast with this developer, so following Chris Nze and Jim Galli's advice, I switched to Rodinal. I am currently developing green sensitive Xray film (50 ISO) for Kallitypes in Rodinal 1:200 for about six minutes. This is working very well for me, and at 58¢ a sheet for 11x14 I really can't complain!

Unfortunately I can't scan my more recent work since since they are all 11x14 and larger than my scanner...

Your image of the mother and child is incredible, such beautiful tones from Xray film. What film did you use (Brand and type of Xray film). Maybe the green sensitive has better tonality in general?

**Jason Greenberg Motamedi** · 20-Apr-2009, 19:22

Thanks Gene. It is the no-name green sensitive film from http://www.cxsonline.com/ I think it is the same as all the other no-name brands (physician's choice or what not), made by Konica in the US.

I have never used the blue sensitive, although may well buy a box sometime soon just to try it. I have been pretty happy with the tonality, it isn't "real" film, but for the price it is an incredible bargain. With 11x14 I was always wondering if the image was worth the price of the film, which really curtails experimentation. I can now use about ten sheets of xray film for one sheet of Efke.

My only issue right now is that the film seems to be a fingerprint and water mark magnet. Have you had this issue Gene?

**Gene McCluney** · 20-Apr-2009, 19:32

Originally Posted by Jason Greenberg Motamedi

Thanks Gene.

My only issue right now is that the film seems to be a fingerprint and water mark magnet. Have you had this issue Gene?

I have found that the film is very delicate. I process on film hangers, so I don't actually touch the film until I take it off the hanger to go into the Photo-flo. I then wipe the film down with photo sponges that have been saturated with photo-flo. I don't have any particular problems with defects, that way, although I did get quite a few emulsion scratches when I tried to cut some down to 5x7. I think I could overcome that also.

**Jim Fitzgerald** · 21-Apr-2009, 07:48

Okay you guys, now I have to decide which one to get. Green or blue? I agree that if I can use this for my 11x14 work it would be great. I usually shoot for high contrast neg's for my carbon printing. If I can get 100 sheets of this film for .58 cents I could shoot a lot more 11x14 or 8x10 for that matter.
Jason, are you using Jim Galli's Rodinal formula from his website or is it just diluted 1:200? I develop all of my film in tanks with hangers. I have a system for 11x14 in hangers and I have to test it out. Uses a lot of chemicals but I am currently using Pyrocat-HD which is very inexpensive.

**Jason Greenberg Motamedi** · 21-Apr-2009, 08:52

I never had much luck with Jim Galli's formula which was developed for graphic arts films, not Xray. I tried a few other low contrast developers including POTA and another whose name escapes me. The contrast was always way too low for my purposes and the tonalities were weird. I had good luck with Rodinal 1:100 (four minutes for a DR of 1.4) and Rodinal 1:200 (six minutes for a DR of 1.4) with no additives. Assuming I am doing 11x14 @1:200 I put 1L of water into a tray and swish the neg around for one minute. I then add the other liter of water with 10ml Rodinal and develop with CONSTANT motion for four to 12 minutes, depending on contrast. The film scratches very easily, so be careful! Also, since these films have emulsions on both sides you must be sure that all parts of both sides receive equal amounts of developer, otherwise you will have weird marks on the rear. I develop exposed emulsion up and to ensure that the rear emulsion is developed I use a flat bottom tray. A dimpled or ribbed bottom can leave weird marks. A hardening fixer is very helpful and it fixes in about one minute.

One main difference I know between the films is that the high-speed blue is about 200 ISO while the ortho green is 50 ISO. Of couse, the color sensitivity is also different, but this is probably mostly an aesthetic choice.

**Don Dudenbostel** · 21-Apr-2009, 19:49

I would suggest trying mamography film. It comes in odd sizes but its single coated on one side and fairly durable. I use it in special xray applications and find kodak and agfa to be finer grain than traditional double coated film. I need more contrast in what I do and run it in D19 1:1 and have used HC110 1:31 with good results. You also might try industrial fray film. I think most are single coated and come in sizes that might work well for pano cameras.