Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

[seezee]

Why do you think blue is so different? CSG Green IS also blue base tint. I think it all X-Ray is blue as it's easier on Doctor's eyes on a light table. They stare at this stuff for hours...Maybe I'm wrong. I started with Kodak CSG Green and it works well for me.

It's my understanding (correct me if I'm wrong) that green/blue refer to the spectral sensitivity of the emulsion, not the color of the substrate. AFAIK, all x-ray film uses the same base: blue tinted polyester.

[koraks]

I find the blue stuff is even more prone to halation than the double sided green stuff, which is the only kind I can get here at reasonable costs. I also don't particularly like the spectral response of the blue film. I only use green now.

[Tin Can]

It's my understanding (correct me if I'm wrong) that green/blue refer to the spectral sensitivity of the emulsion, not the color of the substrate. AFAIK, all x-ray film uses the same base: blue tinted polyester.

I'm not young nor wealthy enough to test all iterations of X-Ray. When I was wandering in the Red light (dark) a few years to. I closel listened to Jim Fitzgerald whom I think said just pick one, they are similar for our purposes. So being the Kodak 'Hater' (kidding!). I am from anger, I chose Kodak CSG 2X and later Ektascan for its single coating, despite many very good practioners of X-Ray, such as Sergei Rodonov saying it was a waste of money and cheapest Realn X-works just fine. Sergei certainly produces results that I can only admire and I doubt eve approach.

My advice is Jim's and Sergei's, buy the cheapest X-Ray possible and shoot it like clay pigeons. Meaning use a whole box of 100 sheets, ASAP you will know what it is.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Randy is right. Don't over analyze it. Int is cheap so shoot a lot and you will learn what you like. For 8x10 buy some single sided stuff and some blue and green. You will be out less than 200 and have 300 sheets of film. Man you can experiment like crazy and you will learn a lot. I do not give it any extra exposure for reciprocity and it works fine. Develop in Pyrocat HD or Rodinal and enjoy. I have this stuff in 11x14 green and blue and all three in 14x17. What is not to like!

[SergeiR]

Yep. Spectral responses.. Special magic doohickies..

Seriously - buy film, shoot it, then work on refining things.

Little to no knowledge actually required to deal with that (or any other in fact) film, if you possess basic developing skills and have little discipline to figure out sensitivity & etc.
Its fraction of the cost of any other large format film, specially if you go with double sided versions. Now where you will take it after you got film working for you - entirely different matter, but that is where actual photography starts.

[captainscot]

7x17 Fuji green X-ray developed in Rodinol 1:100 for 6 mins.

[Andrew O'Neill]

I use both single and double-sided. For the double-sided it's green latitude. I prefer the double-sided's look. Lovely stuff when using light green or light yellow filters. I also shoot the green lat in 14x17. Because I like full, luminous shadows, I apply reciprocity compensation.

[SergeiR]

I use both single and double-sided. For the double-sided it's green latitude. I prefer the double-sided's look. Lovely stuff when using light green or light yellow filters. I also shoot the green lat in 14x17. Because I like full, luminous shadows, I apply reciprocity compensation.

thank you for reminder! I kept thinking i want to try something and yes - it was green-yellow filters again!
We having awesome clouds lately, of course by time i get into field everything will be gone, but i can hope, right?

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

I've only used films that are available locally. Which means, Agfa only (Kodak closed its distribution center here about a decade ago).

I used green sensitive Agfa CP-G+ for a long time. It has no AH backing, and it has rather pronounced halation where highlights meet with shadows—or even mid-tones for that matter.

Now, I'm using green sensitive Agfa HDR. It's single sided and it has AH layer.

In a comparison with the CP-G+ (shot the same scene with both emulsions), I found HDR to have better definition. This is more of interest for enlargements. In contact prints, examined from a normal viewing distance, it's hard to spot the difference.

Fr. Mark was kind enough to send me some Ektascan B/RA to test, but the past few months have been crazy busy (with a literary project) so, I haven't found the time to do some comparative shooting between it and the HDR.

[seezee]

I've read every post in this topic from before & after the 'big merge,' & it seems that most prefer the green sensitive film. I'm curious why — price? extended spectral sensitivity? it was easiest to find/purchase? something else? I'm sticking with what I have, so don't interpret this as a plea to convince me otherwise — I just want to understand people's choices.