Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

[SergeiR]

Yup. I dumped Pyrocat HD into drain (in retrospective i should have just given it to college crowd, but oh well), after doing trials with Kodak CSG and getting pretty horrible results.

R09 is what i am sticking with, as it makes my processing streamlined for any type of film i am using (rolls of 120 by Fuji or Kodak, 4x5 by Ilford / Fuji /Kodak or 8x10 and, hopefully, 20x24 lith, when i get to it) - same times, same rotary process, same dilution, no need to do some magic process stopping, time / exposure wiggling.

Again - i am not technical person, and i am sure there are people who get awesome results with it and by doing down-to-second processing stuff. Nothing against it, its just not for me. I shoot my Kodak CSG at ISO100, as i would do normal film. Flash or outside.

[SergeiR]

Still related to this question, why flash does not register on x-ray film as much as the light meter would indicate (i.e., 1.5 stops less than metered).

Non issue for me. I work with flash.. well.. quite a bit, mixed or pure flash, and its never a problem.

However - it also might depend on flash. They are not equal in quality. Also it might be metering technique. Not everyone meters studio lights same way.

Here is example of flash and natural light mixed in Kodak CSG.

Story time by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr

[SergeiR]

All of above - not to belittle what other folks use/do as far as film / processing techniques & etc. Just personal impressions . which reminds me - i keep forgetting to restock fixer and film

[Andrew O'Neill]

R09 is what i am sticking with, as it makes my processing streamlined for any type of film i am using (rolls of 120 by Fuji or Kodak, 4x5 by Ilford / Fuji /Kodak or 8x10 and, hopefully, 20x24 lith, when i get to it) - same times, same rotary process, same dilution, no need to do some magic process stopping, time / exposure wiggling.

For Canucks, up here R09 is bottled as Blazinal, which is identical to R09, which is identical to Rodinal...

[SergeiR]

Ah and, Andrew, to answer your question:

Unidrum actually has 11x14 tank (to do two 8x10s) that have special ridges that lift film off the surface, so if you do 300ml its enough . Also CatLabs has 8x10 insert for Jobo tanks, that allows you to process 3 sheets of 8x10 and they are completely raised. You can hack one out of regular 120 film spindle, if you feel like it, too. I have two of those unidrum things (well one of them is actually for 20x24, its just two tubes joined together) and insert. Problem with insert is that you will loose few mm on long edges, but given scratch/worry free nature of things - doesn't seem like such a big deal.

I need to get my head together, and i will post some pictures of stuff sometime soon-ish.

[Andrew O'Neill]

Very interesting. Thank you!

[premortho]

8x10, Kodak CSG, R09 1:125 rotary 12min

2015-11-18-0003www by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr

Great pose - great lighting - great job!

[SergeiR]

Great pose - great lighting - great job!

thank you. Overcast day - was nearly perfect, except as i was setting up sun started to jump through, so i had to be fast

[Andrew O'Neill]

Thought I'd give Blazinal a go over the weekend... These are very tight crops from Two sheets of Green Latitude, double-sided, tray, intermitent agitation. Image on top, 1+200, 16:00; Image on bottom, 1+100, 9:00 (both used 5ml stock), 20C. The full negs are also shown (1+200 on top)

[Tin Can]

Thought I'd give Blazinal a go over the weekend... These are very tight crops from Two sheets of Green Latitude, double-sided, tray, intermitent agitation. Image on top, 1+200, 16:00; Image on bottom, 1+100, 9:00 (both used 5ml stock), 20C. The full negs are also shown (1+200 on top)

Nice test. I use Sergei's recommendation of a minimum of 10cc per 80 sq in.

Are you seeking the absolute minimum?