Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

[WayneStevenson]

Doing a marathon print session in my darkroom late last night and had a last-minute urge to grab an exposed sheet and feed it into my Durst processor before I shut her down. Worked very well but I did end up with minor scratches (not deep into the emulsion) where it came into contact with something. They're very uniform lines so I'll see if I can track down what caused it and see if it's something that can be remedied.

Hangers definately would be the best remedy. But I haven't found any shops these days carrying any........Plenty of tanks. No hangers to go with them.

[Andrew O'Neill]

The scratches are really bothersome. I definately do not enjoy them on my film. Had an idea to throw a sheet through my Durst print processor to see what happens. Then decided I didn't want emulsion stuck to all of my rollers........

I prefer to use a ziplock bag with developer poured inside. The bag combo is placed in a flat bottom tray. Puff a bit of air inside the bag, seal, and Bob's yer uncle. You won't need as much solution as you would with the hanger/tank method.
I'm currently working on some xray green latitude film and pyrocat-hd curves using 1+1+200 and 1+1+100 dilution. I also have curves for Rodinol. works very well with this developer. A few months ago I generated some reciprocity data that has been serving me well. I do believe I posted it here somewhere.

[AF-ULF]

When developing large prints in the darkroom, I place a sheet of glass in the tray the same size as the bottom of the tray. This has eliminated scratches on the prints. Would the same thing work for x-ray film?

Question: The X-ray film I am looking at comes in 1. Medium speed green; 2. Half speed blue; 3. Full speed blue and 4. High speed green. I get the difference between the blue and green. Does the speed of the film make much difference in the final image? Is the high speed more contrasty? Anyone know the equivalent EI rating for the medium/half speed films and the high/full speed films?

[dfoo]

I prefer to use a ziplock bag with developer poured inside. The bag combo is placed in a flat bottom tray. Puff a bit of air inside the bag, seal, and Bob's yer uncle. You won't need as much solution as you would with the hanger/tank method.
...

Wow, thats a great idea! I think I'll try it tomorrow!

[Michael Roberts]

And, for those ULF sizes...

Ziploc® Brand Big Bags are available in three big sizes:
•L equivalent to 3 Gallon (11.4L) 1.25 FT. x 1.25 FT. (38.1cm x 38.1cm) 5ct.
•XL equivalent to 10 Gallon (37.8L) 2 FT. x 1.7 FT. (60cm x 51 cm) 4ct.
•XXL equivalent to 20 Gallon (75.7L) 2 FT. x 2.7 FT. (60cm x 82 cm) 3ct.

[jon.oman]

Two questions on development. Since x-ray film has an emulsion on both sides, should you use twice the normal amount of developer? (I'm thinking of developer exhaustion.) For replenishment in a deep tank, would you need twice as much replenisher?

Thanks!

[cosmicexplosion]

[QUOTE=Andrew O'Neill;641882]I prefer to use a ziplock bag with developer poured inside. The bag combo is placed in a flat bottom tray. Puff a bit of air inside the bag, seal, and Bob's yer uncle. You won't need as much solution as you would with the hanger/tank method.

great thanks

[cosmicexplosion]

[QUOTE=AF-ULF;649920]When developing large prints in the darkroom, I place a sheet of glass in the tray the same size as the bottom of the tray. This has eliminated scratches on the prints.

great idea thanks

[mdm]

I prefer to use a ziplock bag with developer poured inside. The bag combo is placed in a flat bottom tray. Puff a bit of air inside the bag, seal, and Bob's yer uncle. You won't need as much solution as you would with the hanger/tank method.
I'm currently working on some xray green latitude film and pyrocat-hd curves using 1+1+200 and 1+1+100 dilution. I also have curves for Rodinol. works very well with this developer. A few months ago I generated some reciprocity data that has been serving me well. I do believe I posted it here somewhere.

Andrew, may I ask your agitation routine and pyrocat dilution when developing in ziplock bags?

[Andrew O'Neill]

Sorry but just reading your question now...

Pyrocat-hd is diluted 10ml's part A + 10ml's part B + 1000ml's water. Film gets constant agitation for one minute, then about 5secs every 30 sec for remaining time. My development time is quite long as they are intended for carbon transfer printing.
I have also had success with a much stronger dilution (500ml's water instead of 1000ml's). Development time is cut from 17:00 to 8:00. My normal EI is 125.

Going down to the darkroom now to see what stripping of the emulsion on the backside of the film will do for me...