Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images

[andrewch59]

If you read the first page of this thread,the recommended speed of full speed blue is iso200 or there abouts, so you would be close

[alefrei]

Rodinal 1:100, ISO 100, 8 min tray development.
This recipe works perfectly constant to me, maybe next time I should reduce development time to 7:20-7:30 and it would be the best I can get from the film.
The only drawback is that diluted developer is disposable, but anyway the process is still very cheap and satisfying.

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

Perseid Meteor Shower 2018

This picture was shot with a Kodak Master 8x10" view camera and the legendary Super Angulon 165mm lens on Fuji AD-M xray film. The exposure lasted 140 minutes at f/8.

The camera was facing NE towards the rising constellation of Perseus.

It was developed for 30'min in an 11x14 flat bottom tray in 60ml RO9 and 75ml FX37II in a liter of distilled water at 24°C.

The negative is rather thin, but with scanning and post processing, this image emerges.

[Tin Can]

Very interesting!

What is FX37II?

I like it, are the straight lines aircraft?

I want to try this one day, er, night...

Perseid Meteor Shower 2018

This picture was shot with a Kodak Master 8x10" view camera and the legendary Super Angulon 165mm lens on Fuji AD-M xray film. The exposure lasted 140 minutes at f/8.

The camera was facing NE towards the rising constellation of Perseus.

It was developed for 30'min in an 11x14 flat bottom tray in 60ml RO9 and 75ml FX37II in a liter of distilled water at 24°C.













The negative is rather thin, but with scanning and post processing, this image emerges.

[Fr. Mark]

Thodoris, That's really neat. We had clouds all during that Meteor shower, rain actually, much needed. It looks like you caught several flashes plus star trails and airplanes.

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

Tanks guys!

My setup on Sunday night included a Kodak Master 8x10" with a Super Angulon 165mm and a Rittreck View 5x7" with a Super Angulon 90mm, both set to f/8.

Made 3 exposures with each camera on Fuji AD-M xray film 18x24cm and 13x18cm.
First 2 exposures were for 80'min and the last one was for 140'minutes.

I developed all films by inspection in sequence, and I was adding developers and developing time based on how the first films responded.

I started with RO9 at 1+50 (20ml in 1lt of distilled water), instead of the 1+100 (10mml in 1lt) that is my normal at the moment (with developing times between 8 and 16min depending on the SBR and the way that I exposed the neg).

The first neg (80min exp) came out almost blank after 20min dev time, so I added another 20ml to the used soup for the next, and so on…

The FX39II (not 37 as per my original post, sorry for that) is a compensating developer based on the original Rodinal.

And yes, those are airplanes. We're a bit south of the incoming route for planes approaching Larnaca airport. 7 planes in 140min is low traffic for this time of year.

[Thodoris Tzalavras]

Tanks = Thanks (obviously...)

[DeBone75]

For those of you old enough to have senior moments. I was out shooting a waterfall here in Georgia with my 4x5 and blue x-ray. I traveled about 120 mile to this location. Not many people around and a perfect day. The light was overhead and sunny so I thought, I need to bump up the contrast a little so I'll use a yellow filter. Four shots at the falls an later and later four shots at an old barn. All but two with the yellow filter. Now for those of you that think a yellow filter will not work on x-ray film it dose. On the falls I got nice white water and very black everything else. Same with barn. Very white roof everything else black 100 o/o contrast. As I was developing the film and trying to figure out where the image was it hit me. Senior moment

[seezee]

As I was developing the film and trying to figure out where the image was it hit me. Senior moment

Yep. You cut most of the blue light. I think an orange filter would have been even worse.

[Andrew O'Neill]

I always shoot with either a #11 light green or #15 yellow filter, on green latitude. They both work very well, especially the #11 on foliage.