Another previous thread concerning wood choice can be found <a href="http://hv.greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl? msg_id=005tWo"here</a> (http://hv.greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch- msg.tcl?msg_id=005tWo). Ebony, cherry, etc are all good woods and each has its advantages and disadvantages for a camera-building material. I won't get started on the issue, but conservation is an important thing to keep in mind when considering the different woods used.
OK, so I'm apparently really starting to lose my grip on what basic HTML skills I once had. Geez, 19 and I'm already starting to slip...
In regards to Bob?s pointing out that field cameras made from ebony weigh more than those made from cherry I have to offer the following thoughts. Yes, ebony is a denser wood than cherry and this would cause an increase in the weight of the camera but not to what I would consider a significant degree. Now of course this is open to interpretation as to what you would call a significant weight increase.
Most people I believe acquire a field camera for the portability and this includes the weight factor as well as other such things as being able to fold it up and carry it in a backpack. As for your main question ?Is the wood used in camera construction a major factor to take into consideration when purchasing a camera?? I am certain that the type of wood is very important in making a view camera. Pine, cedar or fir for instance are not at all appropriate because of the lack of rigidity and workability in these species. On the other hand using the three that were under discussion cherry, rosewood and ebony, they are all very suitable for making cameras with. So onto your second question ?Or are the visual characteristics and weight of the wood the only considerations in that regard.?
Let?s talk about the weight issue and how it may affect your decision. I am assuming that you are asking a question like this because you are going to be going more that 50 paces away from your mode of transportation. So what amount of weight is a significant difference if you are hiking say one to five or six miles in one direction at a time? (I realize some photographers hike much further but expect that the majority work on day trips within this approximate range). Are you capable of carrying a 25 lb pack with intermittent rests on your hike? Perhaps you can manage 30 lbs? Or perhaps you?re an avid outdoors type and 40 + lbs is easily within your capability. As you can see the weight factor has to be based upon your physical capabilities.
So now with this in mind is shaving 14oz off your ?carrying weight? that important? I am of the mind that having the best (most flexible, easy to use and rigid) field camera I can afford as well as the proper lens with me to be more important than reducing my pack by up to a pound or two. If 14 oz is a deep concern then let?s examine other ways in which you may save this weight and still have the camera of your choice with you.
Do you carry a full wallet, pocket change, your complete key chain and wear a belt with a nice buckle on your pants? I sometimes do all of those things. Using a sensitive scale I weighed these items and then decide to take only my driver?s license, credit card, single key and tie my pants up with nylon string. I have now saved 14 ounces. How heavy are the boots/shoes that you wear while hiking? (after all you lift each one many times on a hike). Could you possibly wear lighter footwear? Perhaps a frugal purchase in the $40 - $70 range will save you from 6 to 14 ounces of weight and net you a nice new pair of boots at the same time.
You can probably now see my viewpoint that the obsession with ?reducing the carried weight? at the cost of the equipment you prefer to use can be taken to extremes. I?ll be the first to agree if I can cut 4 or 5 lbs off my pack weight I will happily do that, but not if I have to trade off the type of equipment I want to use out there while hiking. If I need to carry a few more pounds to ensure I have what I feel is appropriate and necessary then this may mean carrying a camera made out of ebony instead of cherry. If so then I?ll just take a few more mini breaks during my hike to compensate for the difference and have the opportunity to enjoy my hike that much more.
By the way if I happened to owe somebody a nickel and only had a dime in my pocket, I would give him or her the whole dime. Yes I would really do this even though it would be a difference of 100%. That is five times more than the 20% difference between Cherry and Ebony.
Regards,
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.
"I wonder if the exaulted prices (cameras) are for the wood itself or the difficulty in working it or most likly...a imaginativly percieved luxury wood that is not really as expensive as we would like to believe"
Do you really believe that the cost of doing business in Japan, the US, the EU equates to the cost of carving wood in Africa?
I was wondering why the ebony-wood cameras are so much more expensive than mahogony or cherry considering that the wood/ebony may or may not be very much more expensive wholesale....if any more expensive....the workmanship was not what I was asking about,that would be close for any of the woods per hour labour in Japan or elsewhere... is there a REAL difference.. percent wise between the different woods that justifies the REAL price difference between cherry and ebony..AND if things are so cheap in Africa....why isnt ebony cheaper? To repeat... I noticed that ebony by the pound by a distributor of imports was in the area of $1.25 a lb.(already carved into items)and the traditional distributor of imports marks up 3 to 8 x's if not more for profit. So....why the exaulted price for these ebony wood cameras?
Ebony is a much harder wood to work. That costs money.
Additionally it seems ebony is in lesser supply so that increases the cost.
Lastly fine wood costs more.
Go to your local lumber yard. Copare the cost per foot of the various grades of pine, oak, walnut cherry, etc.
Lastly cameras are made from furniture grade wood. Fully dried and ages, matched for grain, no knots, etc.
it is not exactly what most people would use for studs or book cases.
Thanks Bob...I am then to acertain that only the finest grades of the highest quality wood are used for cameras,as well as ebonywood being MUCH harder to work and rarer .....increasing prices all around. I would really like to know though...well maybe I wouldnt...the actual price difference(wholesale) between cherry, mahogony and ebony...per camera and the extra man hours of labour to work ebony...but it doesnt really matter...when Im buying a camera,if I want ebony I'll pay extra...if I want cherry I'll pay less...it doesnt have to be a decision based on logical economics....the market and the perception of the value dictate the price.... real or not. Thanks, Emile
"the actual price difference(wholesale) between cherry, mahogony and ebony"
Just ask any lumberyard that sells fine woods. Or you might get price differences from a custom framer that works in these woods.
But what difference does it really make?
You want mahogony, rosewood or ebony then that will direct your choice by brand and you will know that you will have to pay more and they weigh more.
What is the difference in cost between nylon, naugahyde and leather in your car and do you care for the wholesale differnce in cost between them?
We are just talking about a couple of pounds of wood here....not a luxury automobile. E.
How much do you think leather weighs oner fabric to be $1000.00 or more upgrade?
Weight isn't the factor.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks