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Thread: BEST 8x10 b&W Film & Developer for General Landscape Work

  1. #1

    BEST 8x10 b&W Film & Developer for General Landscape Work

    I am just starting to shoot black and white 8x10 negatives and I hope some of the experts can give me suggestions. Is Pyrol still highly regarded? Is this difficult to use? What are the benefits and issues of using Pyro?
    My favorite subjects are moving water, such as waterfalls, cascades, rivers and surf.
    I also love mist and fog.
    Good luck and happy shooting,
    Mike

  2. #2

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    Re: BEST 8x10 b&W Film & Developer for General Landscape Work

    First do you homework. There are many threads on films and devleopers you can find on this website using the search function. They cover discussions of most or all modern films and the benefits and problems with particular developers. Pyro is a toxic developer, favored by many because it adds stain to highlight areas of the negative. Because it is potentially toxic to the user and always bad for the environment, you may want to try more benign developers first, such as Kodak's XTOL. XTOL is good with any current films. For speed purposes alone you may want to try Kodak's revised tmax 400 film for 8x10.

  3. #3
    kev curry's Avatar
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    Re: BEST 8x10 b&W Film & Developer for General Landscape Work

    You might find this interesting...

    http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/PCat/pcat.html

    http://www.jackspcs.com/pmk.htm

    And theres a ton of stuff here on the forum if you do a search as has already been mentioned.

  4. #4
    -Rob bigcameraworkshops.com Robert Skeoch's Avatar
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    Re: BEST 8x10 b&W Film & Developer for General Landscape Work

    I'm very happy with Delta 100 in ID-11 for my 8x10 landscapes.
    -Rob

  5. #5
    All metric sizes to 24x30 Ole Tjugen's Avatar
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    Re: BEST 8x10 b&W Film & Developer for General Landscape Work

    The biggest (to me) drawback to using Pyro and other staining developers is that they tend to print very differently on VC and graded paper.

    So I tend to use pyro developers only when I need then - e.g. to control the contrast in waterfall shots and the like.

    For anything else, I prefer simple non-staining developers. I got a LOT of Ilfotec HC off ebay at a very low price, and am (fortunately) extremely happy with it.

  6. #6
    Greg Greg Blank's Avatar
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    Re: BEST 8x10 b&W Film & Developer for General Landscape Work

    Quote Originally Posted by Toyon View Post
    Because it is potentially toxic to the user and always bad for the environment, .
    Sorry, is simply poor information. Pyrogallic acid as a component of Pyro developers being one of the oldest and newest developers is toxic to humans in powder form. If you do not research how to handle the powder and are careless.

    However once mixed the developer is akin to "Tea" or other tanic acids. The Pyro gallic acid originally was derived from the "Galls" found on oak trees. In liquid form the spent developer can be flushed down the drain if you have a septic system.
    Because it readily oxidizes and returns to rather safe organic state once discarded.

    Whereas hydroquinone based developers can not. Some people love Xtol some hate it. I have no real good results with it, YMMV.

    If your interested in Pyro you should read Gordon's book!

  7. #7

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    Re: BEST 8x10 b&W Film & Developer for General Landscape Work

    "Pyro" refers to developers made bothwith Pyrogallol and Pyrocatechol. There are enough questions about the carcinogenicity of both developers to warrant caution in use and to limit their introduction to the water supply.

    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Blank View Post
    Sorry, is simply poor information. Pyrogallic acid as a component of Pyro developers being one of the oldest and newest developers is toxic to humans in powder form. If you do not research how to handle the powder and are careless.

    However once mixed the developer is akin to "Tea" or other tanic acids. The Pyro gallic acid originally was derived from the "Galls" found on oak trees. In liquid form the spent developer can be flushed down the drain if you have a septic system.
    Because it readily oxidizes and returns to rather safe organic state once discarded.

    Whereas hydroquinone based developers can not. Some people love Xtol some hate it. I have no real good results with it, YMMV.

    If your interested in Pyro you should read Gordon's book!

  8. #8
    おせわに なります! Andrew O'Neill's Avatar
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    Re: BEST 8x10 b&W Film & Developer for General Landscape Work

    No one here has the definitive answer to this question for you. Grab a film and developer and see if it is right for you.

  9. #9
    Octogenarian
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    Re: BEST 8x10 b&W Film & Developer for General Landscape Work

    I suggest that you get hold of a copy of "The Film Developing Cookbook", by S. Anchell and Bill Troop.

    It will tell you everything you want to know about choosing the proper film, as well as the proper developer to use with it.

  10. #10
    Drew Wiley
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    Re: BEST 8x10 b&W Film & Developer for General Landscape Work

    I think anyone who handles ANY kind of darkroom chemical without gloves is stupid. Pyro is no different. Yes, sodium sulfite gets added to salad at fast food joints, while
    pyro is distinctly toxic; but more or less, if you don't get poisoned you can acquire
    allergic sensitivity to developers. Incidentally, about the worst thing you can dump
    down the drain are "eco-friendly" surfactants like Simple Green, which kill not only
    fish fry but just about all the little bugs they feed on (not by poisioning but by
    preventing suspended oxygen from being retained on the gills). The amount of pyro
    and selenium we might discard as casual photographers is vastly less than that
    disposed of by hospitals (yes, pyro is used to tan medical and not just photo gelatin). (Information from a close friend of mine in the EPA, who once monitored
    this stuff.) End of lecture. But you should get the drift. I'm a huge fan of pyroGALLOL.

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