What developer do you use? Why?

[Michael_4514]

DD-X for HP-5, T-Max developer for T-Max, and Rodinal for just about everything else.

Seeing so many good things about pyrocat-hd makes me think about trying it. Where do you guys get the chemicals to mix it?

[John Bowen]

Another Pyrocat HD. I use it with Tmax 400 (5x7, 8x10 and 7x17) and contact print on Azo/Amidol. A wonderful combination of materials!

For smaller formats (35mm & 4x5) I still use Tri-x/HC-110

[Joanna Carter]

Can I just ask about developing Fuji Acros?

I have always used Ilford DD-X 1+4 in a CombiPlan tank for 8mins30secs @ 20°C. Absolutely beautiful results: tonality range, lack of visible grain, etc.

Now, I am about to start using a Jobo ATL-1500, which can only cope with 24°C, thus shortening the dev time to as little as around 6mins. Now, that would be OK but, if I were to do N-2 or N-3 development, I would end up with times around 4mins.

1. Should this be enough to give thorough development?
2. Is there another developer that would give longer times without compromising the results I am getting at the moment?

[Gene McCluney]

I use HC-110 in dilutions "B" and "E". I do deep tank processing of sheet film, and I need convenience.

[Ken Lee]

Another vote for Pyrocat HD.

Here's a sample image. Here's another.

[catshaver]

DD-X for HP-5, T-Max developer for T-Max, and Rodinal for just about everything else.

Seeing so many good things about pyrocat-hd makes me think about trying it. Where do you guys get the chemicals to mix it?

I buy mine in a two part solution from Photographer's formulary in a glycol base. It is a little more expensive than mixing one's own ingredients, but still a fabulous value.

http://www.photoformulary.com/Deskto...ID=31&langID=0

[Henry Ambrose]

Can I just ask about developing Fuji Acros?

I have always used Ilford DD-X 1+4 in a CombiPlan tank for 8mins30secs @ 20°C. Absolutely beautiful results: tonality range, lack of visible grain, etc.

Now, I am about to start using a Jobo ATL-1500, which can only cope with 24°C, thus shortening the dev time to as little as around 6mins. Now, that would be OK but, if I were to do N-2 or N-3 development, I would end up with times around 4mins.

1. Should this be enough to give thorough development?
2. Is there another developer that would give longer times without compromising the results I am getting at the moment?

If the ATL 1500 and the tank you use can handle a large enough quantity of developer - increase your dilution. Maybe 1:6? You'll have to test for your new time, maybe half again as long?

[Henry Ambrose]

I like these developers in the following order:

Xtol
Pyrocat HD
DDX
Divided D76H or D23
Rodinal

Xtol is hard to beat for all around goodness and its cheap and easy to use.

Pyrocat HD is great. Now that its available in liquid I might use it a bit more.

DDX is wonderful but doesn't keep that well and is expensive.

I also very much like Divided D76H or D23. Neither keep as well as Xtol but can give fabulous results. If mixing from raw chemicals was my choice I'd use one of these.

Rodinal has its own special look with Tri-X, but not good for everything, seems to keep forever.

I pared down to Xtol about 5 years ago to simplify my darkroom life. 5 liters is cheap, keeps very, very well and works great with every film I've ever put through it. Most of the time I use it at 1:3.

[John Bowen]

DD-X for HP-5, T-Max developer for T-Max, and Rodinal for just about everything else.

Seeing so many good things about pyrocat-hd makes me think about trying it. Where do you guys get the chemicals to mix it?

Raw Chemicals can be purchased from the Photographers Formulary or Artcraft Chemicals

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Pyrocat-HD is my standard developer. For my 8x10,11x14 and 8x20 it is a great developer. I have some of that 3-D looking Efke-25 in 11x14 that I can't wait to print in carbon transfer. Like Jim said once you mix it it lasts a long time is cheap and gives great results. You can pull or push most films with this developer and do minimal agitation which is how I develop the 8x10's and soon the 11x14's.


Jim