What developer do you use? Why?

[Jehu]

I'm getting a little tired of mixing powders. I've been using ID-11 and D-76. What do you use and why?

I shoot 4X5:
Delta 100 & 400
HP5+ 400
Tmax 100 & 400

Thanks for any help on this.

[Ron Marshall]

Although a powder, XTOL mixes more easily than ID-11/D76.

Below is a link to a Kodak chart that lists developer charecteristics:

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...?pq-path=14053

[Gary L. Quay]

Although a powder, XTOL mixes more easily than ID-11/D76.

Below is a link to a Kodak chart that lists developer charecteristics:

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/profe...?pq-path=14053

I just used Xtol for the first time, and I think the recommendation is a good one. It did mix easy, and I really liked the results.

[BradS]

I was taught to develop film back in the early 1970's using Kodak D-76 (1+1). In the intervening years, I tried many others. I have returned to D-76 (1+1).

It is clean, stable, reliable, well understood and it just plain works well with everything...and it forgives me my relaxed approach to the technical aspects of this pastime.

[cjbroadbent]

Lately, Ornano Nucleol BF 200, a one-shot 2-component pyrocat developer. It gets me strong negatives for contact printing to argyrotype where midtones have a bad time separating.
Sometimes a staining deveoper, Tanol from Moersch, though it is a bit hard to control.
My staple one-shot has always been HC110 B. No fuss but weaker midtones.

[Gem Singer]

Ilford DD-X is a liquid concentrate. No need to mix powders.

DD-X is a Phenidone-Hydroquinone formulation. A prosumer version of Ilford's DD developer that they sell to commercial labs.

FA-1027 is also a liquid concentrate available from The Photographer's Formulary. Similar formula to DD-X, but less expensive.

Both of these developers work great with Ilford HP-5+ and Delta films.

Of course, Pyrocat HD or MC are available in liquid concentrate form (be sure to get them in glycol).

[Maretzo]

Hi,

I tried rodinal for several 4x5 sheets (Delta 100) and 120 (FP4 and Delta 100) and I found the result too grainy for my taste. I switched to D76, as it was said very difficult to mix, once the D76 finished, I may try DD-X or Xtol.

[W K Longcor]

Hi,

I tried rodinal for several 4x5 sheets (Delta 100) and 120 (FP4 and Delta 100) and I found the result too grainy for my taste. I switched to D76, as it was said very difficult to mix, once the D76 finished, I may try DD-X or Xtol.

In defense of Rodinal -- it never was for fine grain. But what grain there is -- is sharp as a tack! It is a high acutance (I hope I spelled that correctly) developer. I have a print made from 35mm tri-x developed in Rodinal 1:100 -- I showed the spocket holes on the print -- they are larger than a 4x5 sheet of film. The image is SHARP! And from a proper viewing distance for a print of this size, the grain is not offensive.

If the subject has smooth gradation of lighting and tone, the grain "blends" nicely. It becomes very visable in contrasty subjects.

At the high dilutions ( which are very easy to mix), Rodnal is great in a rotary processor.

[Mike Herring]

I have used many high acutance film developers over the course of the last 35 years.
Sorry to admit it except I am that old. I ran a photo lab in the early 1970s in the US Army. The finest developer I ever experienced was Tetenal Neofin Blue. It came in amber colored glass vials that had to be broken open and it was used highly diluted as a one shot developer. When I used it with Leitz lenses and viewed it through a magnifier under the enlarging lens I was totally amazed. This Rodinal, and Edwal FG7 were all wonderul but I would give the edge to the Tetenal. Beseler began to import the Tetenal developers into the US but I experienced quality issues. The Beseler versions came in amber colored plastic vials and were oxidated before I could even open them. I finally switched to Kodak KC110 - dilution B and found it worked well for my 120 roll films and 4x5 negatives.
I am just starting to shoot black and white 8x10 negatives and I hope some of the experts can give my suggestions. Is Pyrol still highly regarded?
Good luck and happy shooting,
Mike

In defense of Rodinal -- it never was for fine grain. But what grain there is -- is sharp as a tack! It is a high acutance (I hope I spelled that correctly) developer. I have a print made from 35mm tri-x developed in Rodinal 1:100 -- I showed the spocket holes on the print -- they are larger than a 4x5 sheet of film. The image is SHARP! And from a proper viewing distance for a print of this size, the grain is not offensive.

If the subject has smooth gradation of lighting and tone, the grain "blends" nicely. It becomes very visable in contrasty subjects.

At the high dilutions ( which are very easy to mix), Rodnal is great in a rotary processor.

[Arne Croell]

I have used many high acutance film developers over the course of the last 35 years.
Sorry to admit it except I am that old. I ran a photo lab in the early 1970s in the US Army. The finest developer I ever experienced was Tetenal Neofin Blue. It came in amber colored glass vials that had to be broken open and it was used highly diluted as a one shot developer. When I used it with Leitz lenses and viewed it through a magnifier under the enlarging lens I was totally amazed. This Rodinal, and Edwal FG7 were all wonderul but I would give the edge to the Tetenal. Beseler began to import the Tetenal developers into the US but I experienced quality issues. The Beseler versions came in amber colored plastic vials and were oxidated before I could even open them. I finally switched to Kodak KC110 - dilution B and found it worked well for my 120 roll films and 4x5 negatives.
I am just starting to shoot black and white 8x10 negatives and I hope some of the experts can give my suggestions. Is Pyrol still highly regarded?
Good luck and happy shooting,
Mike

Mike, Tetenal still makes and sells Neofin blue in Germany, in the glass bottles you describe. It is not imported to the US anymore, however. Great with Agfa APX 25 when that was available, also with Rolleipan 25. Photographers Formulary makes a product that is supposedly similar to the original Neofin blue, but I have not tried it: http://www.photoformulary.com/Deskto...ion=0&langId=0