Rollo Pyro and Delta HP+4

[Harley Goldman]

I am currently using Rollo Pyro with Delta 100 and a Jobo 3010. Is Rollo also good with HP+4? I assume it would be, but never hurts to ask.

If so, would I use the same developing time at 68 degrees? I am currently doing Sodium Metaborate for 5 minutes, A/B mix for 9, fix for 5 minutes, then SMB again for 2 minutes at the end.

Thanks

[MenacingTourist]

I've used this dev for HP4 and loved it. I don't remember the exact time I used for the a/b mix but everything else seems the same.

Alan.

[Gem Singer]

I use HP-5+ and FP-4+, but never heard of HP+4 or HP4.

Are these new Ilford films?

[Harley Goldman]

Good call Gem. Make that FP 4+.

[Bjorn Nilsson]

Most Pyro and catechol developers works very well with HP5+ and FP4+.
A note about the final bath of SMB at the end. The idea is to promote stain, but all it really does it to build base stain, i.e. an even layer of stain. Mr. Hutchings (sp?) who started the "new wave" of pyro-developing with the PMK developer did at one point introduce this final step. He now doesn't recommend it any more, due to its ineffectiveness.
So in short, it's safe to skip the final SMB bath. You will not miss a thing.

//Björn

[MenacingTourist]

Thanks for the tip Bjorn

[Drew Wiley]

I'd have to disagree with Bjorn on one point. I find the alkaline afterbath to be a useful
tool for fine-tuning the amount of image stain, analogous to selenium toning when
printing. It is particularly useful for thinner emulsion films which otherwise don't stain well. With FP4 and HP5 you do have to be careful not to overdo it, however. I've just run my first test with HP5 and Max Pyro. Results are obviously a little different from PMK or Pyrocat, but I can't do much better than this explanation until I actually make some prints this weekend; but I do expect some improvement in highlts and shadows.

[chilihead]

Rollo is King with HP5 -

[sanking]

Drew,

I don't recommend the alkaline after-bath, in fact never have. Gordon Hutchings recommended the procedure in his book, but has since backed off from this recommendation.

It would be very hard to prove anything about the result of the after bath, except for the fact that it adds a slight bit of B+F stain.

Sandy King

I'd have to disagree with Bjorn on one point. I find the alkaline afterbath to be a useful
tool for fine-tuning the amount of image stain, analogous to selenium toning when
printing. It is particularly useful for thinner emulsion films which otherwise don't stain well. With FP4 and HP5 you do have to be careful not to overdo it, however. I've just run my first test with HP5 and Max Pyro. Results are obviously a little different from PMK or Pyrocat, but I can't do much better than this explanation until I actually make some prints this weekend; but I do expect some improvement in highlts and shadows.

[John Powers]

Harley,

I use Rollo Pyro from Bostick & Sullivan for FP4+, HP5+ and old T Max 400 in 8x10 and 7x17 sizes in a Jobo CPP2. At B&S' suggestion I do not use the second stain step.

Times in a Jobo are a little hard to discuss because of the 20 second pour in and out and at what point you start and stop the clock. At 68 degrees I use six minutes plus the pour times which seems a bit less than you suggest. You don't mention wash. I use ten two minute changes of the water after two quick fill and dumps, about 850ml to a fill.

John