Clear Epoxy Resin over Prints

[willwilson]

Anybody have any experience working with clear epoxy or know someone that does? I am experimenting with alternative mounting/framing methods and have been looking at epoxies. I am thinking about covering dry-mounted fiber prints with one or more layers clear epoxy. Would this work? Am I crazy?

My concern would be the ultimate result of the reaction between the epoxy and the print or mount board causing discoloration/damage over time (multiple years). Also, the yellowing of the epoxy itself. I have read epoxy is UV resistant. Anybody know if you can put an additional UV coating on epoxy or how UV resistant it actually is?

And before someone who hinge mounts says it. I know this would not be archival or reversible...

Thanks!

[Frank Petronio]

Wouldn't the epoxy do strange things to the mat board you're dry-mounting to? I've seen that the face-mounted glued to plexi prints need to be mounted onto something stiffer, like aluminum.

[Ivan J. Eberle]

Typically, unpigmented epoxies are anything but archival. They yellow quickly when exposed to UV. There can also be serious health consequences to inhaling epoxies without the right respirator, particularly an allergic reaction that sets up sometime after initial exposure.

There are photographic print lacquers that are reasonably long-lived and non-yellowing. Nowhere near as archival as the print materials, but probably 10-15 years before they begin to degrade, provided you keep the print from getting wet, etc. Key to a good lacquering job is to not build it up too thick or it'll crack and flake off.

And yes, whatever you use for a substrate had better be impervious to the solvents. Most foam-cor will buckle.

[IanMazursky]

I have seen plaques that have been lacquered and they are over 30+ years old.
Whatever they use is probably a lot more archival.
My fathers are almost 30 years and they are as good as the day he got his diploma.

[Frank Petronio]

I stuck this decoupaged inkjet out in a tree over two years ago, it ain't too bad considering that it's the End Times... $5 at the craft store and very easy to work with.

[David A. Goldfarb]

Strand lacquered his prints to give them more gloss, and I've heard from someone who has worked with these prints that this has been something of an archival nightmare, as the lacquer has crazed over time, and since it soaked through the emulsion, the emulsion layer is also cracked.

[willwilson]

Typically, unpigmented epoxies are anything but archival. They yellow quickly when exposed to UV.

So, does that mean that all of the modern art being created with epoxy is going to yellow in 10 years? What is quickly and are there non-typical epoxies that don't yellow or some type of uv coating that could be applied to reduce or eliminate yellowing?

I am not interested in lacquer. I want thick clear glass like coatings.

Anybody have any ideas about where I could do some reading about epoxy in general. All the info I have found tends to be a little biased. Its either from a manufacturer saying how great their epoxy is or a retailer. Any good artist forums where their might be some practicing artist using this stuff?

I am going to do some testing but yellow over 10 or more years is hard to test for.

Thanks!

[Drew Wiley]

This kind of thing is done with polyester resins, not epoxies. You could try a decoupage
kit if the print is small and of no real value. Embedding large prints is an extemely tricky
proposition, but has been done commercially at considerable expense. Make sure you have good ventilation and rubber gloves. This stuff is not healthy to touch or breathe.
The chemicals involved are pure voodoo in terms of color dye stability- in other words,
not recommended if "archival" is an issue. Unlike expoxies or print lacquers, some polyester resins do not yellow much. But the type of resin you'd be looking for is quite a bit different from fiberglass resins. Just go to the sites of plastics dealers and search
"decoupage". It used to be a popular hobby item.

[Wilbur Wong]

I have not tried this for prints myself, but as a professional builder, I have used polyurethane finishes for hardwood flooring which may give you the finish and durability you are looking for.

My favorite products are from Bonakemi (a swedish company) but they are widely available from professional flooring care and installation suppliers. Don't look for these at home depot.

They offer solvent based finishes as well, but I use only the waterborne varieties including catalyzed ones. Most of them including "Bona Traffic" which is a catalyzed finish stays extremely clear. If you are interested in trying these out, be advised that you want to have your work flat horizontal. These finishes have very low viscosities unlike most other coatings. This allows them to "self level" before polymerizing, as such you can get extremely flat smooth finish surfaces. You have choices of satin through high gloss surfaces.

BTW, these are very low VOC volatile organic compounds and there is almost no odors that are objectionable to most people, even during the application. MSDS doesn't classify these as hazardous waste, it does recommend adequate ventilation during application. These usually set up to a tack free surface in less than an hour, so don't do it on windy days if you want it to stay dust free.
Application is usually done with "spreaders" which are available up to 24 inches wide. Be forewarned that the spreader itself needs a pretty good load of material itself, the usual application is pouring the material onto the surface and spreading it, yes you can use a brush, or a painting pad which perhaps might be your best bet for small areas.

The non catalyzed versions are also polyurethanes which polymerize in reaction to moisture (from the air). So either case, once set up, these don't dissolve again with solvents.

[MARK RITCHEY]

Epoxies contain aromatic compounds derived from bisphenol.
The aromatic molecules are notorious for yellowing over time.
Many of the plastic panels over fluorescent lights were clear styrene and they show severe yellowing after a year or two.
I rember ilfochrome (formerly cibachrome) sold laminating films that would double the life of their prints.
Wilbur Wong's comment about floor sealing urethanes actually sound promising. Make sure that these are based on non aromatic toluene diisocyanate or polymeric methylene iso's which contain aromatics. Many of the best clear coat urethane automobile finishes are of this type. Be careful with any urethane system as some people are hyperallergic to some.
Many years ago I used the urethane floor resins to coat plywood darkroom sinks and it worked great !