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Thread: Newbie needs film developing advice

  1. #1

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    Newbie needs film developing advice

    I bought my first LF camera about a year ago, and have been shooting color transparencies. Got into it because of the likes of David Meunch, Jack Dykinga, etc., but recently my tastes have changed a little, and I'm itching to give B&W a try. But here are the two problems: 1) I've never developed a single bit of film in my life and 2) I don't want to accumulate a whole bunch of stuff until I'm sure this is not just a temporary obsession!

    I've been reading a lot, Steve Mulligan's "B&W Made Simple" (or something like that), Adams' "The Negative", Picker's Zone VI Workshop book, Ken Lee's site, etc. I think I have some handle on the big picture, and I'm pretty comfortable with the technical aspects. There are a (very) few people in town who might be able to help me out, but they have not been terribly forthcoming so far.

    I have 100 sheets of film, have decided on a developer, and am ready to start shooting to find a film speed and developing time. At this point I think I will eventually scan (or have other people scan) negatives and print digitally. Getting ahold of an enlarger does not look promising at this point. My understanding is that my testing should be conducted from exposure all the way to print, but it just ain't going to happen that way right now, and if I wait until I have everything worked out it may never happen!

    So here is my dilemma: How should I develop my film? I had originally thought trays. I have also been offered the use of these hangers that I saw in a photo in The Negative - I think they are for what is referred to as the "dip and dunk" method. The advantage of these over trays would appear to be that the dunking tanks are taller and narrower than trays, so would be easier to put in a tub of water to hold the temp constant, rather than a fairly large area of sink needed to hold 4 trays. I just read about a "taco method" used by another forum member, and that sounds appealing. He says he folds the film like a taco, with the emulsion side in, puts a rubber band around it, and puts four sheets in a daylight developing tank.

    So here are the specific questions:

    1. Any strong feelings/opinions about any of these methods? Really like one, dislike one?

    2. What choices of simple, relatively inexpensive daylight developing tanks are available? Does anyone know of a web source of information on their use?

    3. If I don't use a daylight tank, what should I do about a clock? I've looked at a few on e-bay, etc. Saw some in the B&H catalog, but they seemed pretty expensive ($150-$200) for where I am at this point.

    Thanks in advance for your help. This forum has been invaluable in my LF adventure so far.

  2. #2
    Louie Powell's Avatar
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    Re: Newbie needs film developing advice

    1. I use a slosher - an insert that fits into an 11x14 tray and than holds six sheets of film in individual compartments in a way that prevents them from touching each other. While that's my preference, an easier way to start is to CAREFULLY shuffle sheets of film in a tray. If you don't have trays, you can always use those clear plastic trays that supermarkets used to package up lettuce and spinach. Of course, this is a total-darkness method.

    2. The Combi-Plan tank is one of the very few daylight tanks in current production. Some people swear by them - others swear at them. The one thing that seems to be a universal comment is that they tend to leak and should be used where a little chemical won't do any harm. By the way - black and white chemistry is pretty innocuous stuff. You don't want to drink it, and sometimes it will stain, but it's not especially toxic.

    3. I use a Gralab 300 timer. It has phosphorescent hands that can be seen in total darkness - and that don't generate enough light to fog film. I bought mine for $5 at a photo flea market.

  3. #3

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    Re: Newbie needs film developing advice

    B&W isn't overly temp critical. If the room is fairly constant it'll be okay.

    Jobo 2551 used with a 2509N reel. New it's not cheap but used isn't too bad. I'd add it to a Unicolor rollerbase and a Gralab 300 timer but you don't have to.

    Talking clock? Tape recorder?

  4. #4

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    Re: Newbie needs film developing advice

    I must admit I find Accurists onlinespeaking clock useful, although I greatly prefered the original version with one accent. Anyhow just turn up the P speaker and you have 10 second interval announcements it's the relative time that matters mot the absolute after all.

    I have a Combiplan and it does work well if you follow the instructions precisely, it's main use now though is as a wash tank for 5X4 as I found a useful thing called a Foto-cell GL80 it's a stainless steel water bath with four 4 litre acrylic tanks that I use for E6 dip dunk with the Tetanol kit I believe lots of people use a similar method using say food storage containers for tanks in a plastic utility container water bath which should be fine for black and white. If you do get a Combiplan the film carrier is really useful for dip dunk too.

  5. #5

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    Re: Newbie needs film developing advice

    If you expect to get into B&W I'd suggest jumping right to the Jobo Expert 3010 drum. I have used the Combi-Plan tank with good success and some failures. The failures were probably my error on the learning curve.

    The Jobo is very easy to load and (once loaded) is a daylight tank. It uses small amount of chemicals and for development. I have found using the developer as a one shot has made for more consistent results. I added a simple motor / giant o-ring to mine and it now spins with consistency which improves results. The motor contraption was easy and cost about US$30.

    I personally think you are going in the right direction, image, develop, scan, photoshop and print.

    _ .. --
    TiM

  6. #6

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    Re: Newbie needs film developing advice

    I'll second the jobo, except without the motor base. that way you can agitate any way you want.

  7. #7

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    Re: Newbie needs film developing advice

    I prefer the BTZS tubes or your own home-made version of them. You can buy a set of six tubes, 12 caps, and a water jacket tray for about $120 from The View Camera Store. Once you have the film loaded in the tubes everything from there through washing can be done in room light. Each tube takes only 2 ounces of working developer solution so you save on chemicals. And once you get into serious testing and know your normal, plus and minus development times you can develop different sheets for different times in the same run (which can't be done with a Jobo drum). I process six sheets at a time in the tubes though you could probably do up to about 10 if you had the tubes. But if you really want to go inexpensive, get four or five 5x7 or 8x10 trays and tray develop, see how you like b&w. If you want to pursue it get the tubes or a Jobo drum later.
    Brian Ellis
    Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you do criticize them you'll be
    a mile away and you'll have their shoes.

  8. #8

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    Re: Newbie needs film developing advice

    Here is an image of my homemade motor base for the Robo. Adding the electronics to reverse direction and speed would be trivial. The I've spun the 3005 drum with a full liter and the motor only got warm.

    _ .. --
    TiM

  9. #9

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    Re: Newbie needs film developing advice

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Ellis View Post
    on BTZS tubes: Once you have the film loaded in the tubes everything from there through washing can be done in room light.
    Not true. You must screw in the developer-filled cap in darkness. Also, I know that some people sink the BTZS tubes in stop bath with the lights on, but I think this is terrible technique.

  10. #10

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    Re: Newbie needs film developing advice

    I ended up using the technique in this article:

    http://www.largeformatphotography.in...ve-developing/

    which is a dip-n-dunk method using 3 combi tanks and one combi hangar. My problem was space, and the fact that my 'darkroom' is not all that dark. I bring my tub with the 3 tanks with chemicals loaded into a dark closet, and sit in there like an idiot for however long it takes to do a batch until I get the film fixed. Then I bring it out into the light for washing.

    I tried using the Combi straight, but it takes forever to pour the chemicals into and out of the tank, and it leaks pretty badly. They shouldn't be too upset, though. I did end up buying 3 of them.

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