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Thread: condit registration equipment

  1. #11
    Drew Wiley
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    SF Bay area, CA
    Posts
    18,377

    Re: condit registration equipment

    What you can do with rivet bases if you're steady-handed is to very slightly grind down the glass using a carbide or diamond cylinder (depending on the type of glass),
    using a die grinder, precision drill press, or even Dremel tool. If I was starting from scratch I'd buy one of those Jet miniature "hobby" milling machines (about $800 + cutters). But since my original Condit equipment is in very good shape, I don't need to actually manufacture much more gear. The difficult thing to find is a thick kind of
    anti-newton glass which can be drilled. According to Warren Condit himself, when he
    was still alive, it is no longer made. Focal Point glass can't be drilled, but I have
    sucessfully bonded pins to strips and slightly recessed the tabs in the manner noted
    above to make precision neg carriers. If you don't need anti-newton, you can use
    conventional thick float glass, provided it's not tempered. I have some diamond bits
    in transit to see how they'll work with tempered. Any change in flatness plane will
    affect registration. I wouldn't want anything but the 1/16" micro-pin projecting above
    the surface.

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Stevens Point, WI
    Posts
    1,553

    Re: condit registration equipment

    What are you trying to do with them?

    I suggest that you contact Lynn Radeka. He sells registration pins, punches, and registration negative carriers. His pins are good for DIY projects on a budget.

    Another alternative is Alistair Inglis.

  3. #13
    Drew Wiley
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    SF Bay area, CA
    Posts
    18,377

    Re: condit registration equipment

    The Condit system is preferable for sheer versatility, for working with film larger than
    4X5, or for a high degree of accuracy. Durst also made their own system, but it's hard
    to get all the parts in decent condition; they used an offset pin which could be adjusted using a screwdriver, but you need their own punch. What one does to cement
    a micropin is to put them in the film, coat the film itself with a little vaseline or butter
    to prevent the epoxy from sticking (but don't get any on the pin bases), insert and
    adjust the pin bases with a good overnite 2-ton glass epoxy (not the quickie stuff).
    You also need a flat weight or platen so the film is pressed completely even, just like
    it will be when the masking frame is closed.

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