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Thread: Suggestions for single strobe portraits

  1. #21

    Join Date
    Mar 2002
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    Timber Cove, CA
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    24

    Re: Suggestions for single strobe portraits

    A couple things that folks touched on that might be useful in your thought process:

    A good light stand can make a lot of difference in how easy it is to set up your light(s). Going with something light weight isn't necessarily the best investment. On the other hand they aren't trivial in expense and may tend to challenge your budget.

    Whichever strobe you go with, proportional modeling lights are essential. You can see the effects of single/multiple light set ups. I use four venerable White Lighting Ultra 600 ... never a moments trouble. Most often lately I use an Ultra 600 in a 24" square soft box on a counterweighted Redwing pantograph type boom mounted on a heavy stand on casters. (I do a lot of smallish objects on a table top, and occasional portraits.) It makes those slight changes in the light position/direction easy. 6" this way or a foot that way is really quick to check. If it is hard to make changes and small adjustments ... the tendency might be to 'settle' rather than refine. I wish I'd bought this stand/boom/softbox arrangement the first time I bought lighting ... but I tried to save money. Not a good decision for me. But it is a budget stretcher. And, yes, sheets of foam core make fine reflectors.

    A trustworthy meter for electronic flash is essential if you're shooting film.

  2. #22
    Peter De Smidt's Avatar
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    Jan 2001
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    Fond du Lac, WI, USA
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    Re: Suggestions for single strobe portraits

    Fred makes a good point. Don't ignore the light stand. For location work, I recommend:http://www.giottos.com/LC.htm
    I also have some Photogenic Talon stands which are a little nicer, but they're bigger, bulkier, heavier and more expensive. For studio work, C-stands are great.

    If you need a small boom arm, a Matthew's mini boom work well. You hang the light on one end and a light sandbag on the other. I also have a small bogen boom arm, one with a sliding weight. These weights work ok on the really big studio booms, But I found it a real pita with the small boom. Fred's redwing boom is supposed to be really nice, but I've never used one.

  3. #23

    Join Date
    Sep 1998
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    Loganville , GA
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    14,409

    Re: Suggestions for single strobe portraits

    Do a Google search for Monte or Monte Zucker. He was a master of one light portraits and there should be tons of articles that he did for various portrait and wedding magazines as well as lectures. You might also look for some of his video tapes and DVDs.

  4. #24

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    May 2008
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    132

    Re: Suggestions for single strobe portraits

    Thanks guys. Since I'm already ordering from either AlienBee or White Lightning, I figured I would order one of their light stands as well.

    I'm still in between the AB1600 or the White Lightning X1600, but I read a good review on both, so I'll just have to see how deep my pockets are!

    Jason

  5. #25
    lenser's Avatar
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    Jul 2007
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    Tim from Missouri
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    1,698

    Re: Suggestions for single strobe portraits

    Jason,

    I can't tell you much about the Alien Bees but have used Ultras (no longer made) and the x series for years with almost no repairs (3 simple ones in 25+ years). One thing no one has thought of is the strength of the variable angle clamp on the light. If you are going with something heavier and twhich sticks way out like a big soft box or octabox (and I recommend those over umbrellas), you will have a lot of forward and downward force on the clamp. It can drift due to the torque. I know that the x series clamp is tough but I don't know if the AB's can stay really rigid where you set them. Check that out before you buy.

    The AB clamp is also set in one position only whereas the x series have a clamp block that can be repositioned for center of gravity with whatever modifier you are using. That's a very big benefit!!!!

    The modeling light issue is major with anything enclosed since you will be subtracting light as it goes through the fabric. That's especially important since looking at a ground glass is already dim compared to a regular viewfinder. That seven stop range is also a good tool as it gives you much more control of exactly what power setting you want.

    Umbrellas are terrific for fill light, but it scatters light and I don't want one for a main.

    The main is used up by the subject. That implies that it's closer to the background and that means that the scatter from the modeling light and flash burst will potentially leave a light pattern on whatever your background is. This is true whether for traditional or shoot through umbrellas. A soft box or octabox both enclose the light (softening it more) and thus can help you to completely control it's direction and where it falls. No spill unless you direct it.

    My business partner loves his octabox, but I prefer my big Larson soft box as the soft box has a deeply recessed face that helps to completely control any edge spill. The octabox face is flat to the edge, but has the advantage of a collapsible inner frame that makes set up and tear down a bit easier. You can add the egg crate type of baffle to the octagox, but that's just more money for something that you personally may not need.

    A bit of advice, the larger the soft box, the more gravity stress there is on the fabric face at all positions. Photoflex used to be made with fiber glass ribs which flexed enough to allow a lot of sag in the face in the large and extra large boxes, especially in a horizontal position (tabletop shooting) and still bad at vertical. I think they still are fiberglass as the boxes have a pronounced curve as the ribs flex along their paths. They are also VERY deep which adds to the forward stress for the clamp. They also take up much more space around your stands so allow for that in your thinking. Photoflex does give a beautiful light, I don't want to take away from that at all as I used one for about twenty years, but I feel that others are better engineered.

    Larson uses aluminum rods and I think Plume and Chimera do so as well. Larson rods stay straight to the ends which means its a shallower profile and less stress on the clamp. Avoid any boxes that don't allow removal of the face to add or remove the internal baffle and access to the modeling light and (in some models) white, silver or gold side panels.

    For stands, go for heavy duty and air cushioned to protect the strobe, and at least nine foot, preferably taller. You won't always be working in a low ceilinged living room so go for height if you can. Something that is seldom mentioned is leg spread. It's important for stability, especially as you use big soft boxes and as you go higher.
    Be sure to check that out. Finally, sand bags or weights on the stand (as already mentioned) are a great idea for more stability. The definitely help to avoid the light and stand crashing over onto someones head or the family curio cabinet in someone's home.

    Good luck.

    Tim
    "One of the greatest necessities in America is to discover creative solitude." Carl Sandburg

  6. #26

    Join Date
    May 2006
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    Sillycon Valley, CA
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    295

    Re: Suggestions for single strobe portraits

    Quote Originally Posted by jasonjoo View Post
    Currently, I've been using window lighting in my hallway. While the light coming through is actually very good, I'm just not getting enough light. My last photos were taken at 1/30th, f5.6 (shallow DOF!) with ISO 100 film.
    Why not use a faster speed film? 400iso would get you up to f11.

    Also, if you are unfamiliar with lighting portraits, a single hot light might be good to start out with. If you want cheap, a halogen flood light from a home improvement store works. this and a cheap foam core reflector will give you plenty of options to experiment with while you are figuring out what type of strobe to get.

    since you are considering a strobe, do you already have a flash meter?

    -Darren

  7. #27

    Join Date
    May 2008
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    132

    Re: Suggestions for single strobe portraits

    Hey Tim, thanks! I think I'll stick with the octabox for now

    Darren, I have a Sekonic L-358 so I believe it should work just fine. Faster film speed would be nice, but I just bought 50 sheets of Arista.EDU Ultra 100 and another 50 in ISO 200. But, the next time I make it out to Freestyle, I'll be sure to pick up a box of HP5+. But I can't always shoot in the comforts of my own home (or in that specific hallway), so I think investing in a strobe will be a good move!

    Jason

  8. #28

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    Oct 2006
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    1,952

    Re: Suggestions for single strobe portraits

    Jason,

    Don, I've looked through the Strobist site a few times, but I always thought most of their work was limited to the small Canon and Nikon strobes. I'll take a look into their techniques though.
    Precisely my point, but besides that there are some good tips about stands reflectors, and lighting techniques.

    Of course learninng expose and develop sheet film properly will be your first challenge.

    Don Bryant

  9. #29

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    Nov 2007
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    1,127

    Re: Suggestions for single strobe portraits

    Quote Originally Posted by jasonjoo View Post
    Thanks guys. Since I'm already ordering from either AlienBee or White Lightning, I figured I would order one of their light stands as well.

    I'm still in between the AB1600 or the White Lightning X1600, but I read a good review on both, so I'll just have to see how deep my pockets are!

    Jason
    If you're budget conscious, why not get the AB 800 or 400 ? I own 2 800's and a 400 and I have yet to ever use them at full power in my studio.

  10. #30

    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    2,955

    Re: Suggestions for single strobe portraits

    The case, switches, connectors, clamps of the WL are heavier duty than those on the AB. AFAIK the guts are the same, except for the stronger modeling light on the WL.

    I have WL 1600s and am very satisfied with them.

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