Tray processing... why not make the trays light tight?

[Murray]

Eddie's got the sodium thiosulfate name right, and probably meant sodium sulFITE for second chemical (I think, because sodium sulFATE is used for, among other things, possibly, high temperature/tropical developer recipes - see Anchell/Troop or research before self-diagnosing - I can't remember if it has some other effect on emulsions...or maybe that is it's sole purpose, to keep emulsion from tending toward dissolving at elevated temperature)?

[Glenn Thoreson]

If you really want to save money, you can make your own tubes out of ABS drain pipe and caps. Glue one cap on and leave the other unglued for easy on/off. I use them occasionally. Load and fill in the dark, place in a water bath and roll with the lights on. The only thing I find frustrating with mine is I have to turn off the lights to change solutions. That's only due to the very basic construction of the tube. You could have three tubes or more, prefilled with solution, for only a few bucks. Three inch pipe will do nicely for 4X5.

[jasonjoo]

yeah yeah yeah! heard that before!

being broke was never an excuse for LF purchases! ah, you can get into 8x10 with a lens and a couple of film holders for under $400! i do feel a bit sorry for you though.....seeing you are starting with the chamonix it will be tough on you to use an old worn wooden camera from back in the day! an 8x10 chamonix will definitely break you! it is so much fun.....

i will bet you an old 8x10 wood holder you got 8x10 GAS in 6 months! try to resit....i dare you! LOL!

i will check back with you in 6 months! happy shooting/souping.

eddie

Hahaha thanks Eddie! I'll hold you accountable to that. But... if I end up receiving an 8x10 holder, I might be forced to buy a camera to fit it...

Glenn, that is another idea that I will consider. I guess it's best to keep my options open!

Thanks guys,

Jason

[John Kasaian]

In nearly all of the articles I read on tray processing, most people list one of the limitations as having to work in the dark. So why don't put just make the tray light tight? Though I still do not have my camera yet (waiting on the Chamonix), I'm trying to get my darkroom (read: bathroom) setup so I can get my feet wet right away.

I was thinking about buying 2 8x10 trays and a larger tray to place them in to have some control over temperatures. I haven't seen any covers or lids for trays, so maybe I'll have to think outside the box and look at kitchenware. Anyways, I was thinking about painting the outsides black and putting a thin layer of rubber coating (or something similar) around the edges of the container and then placing the lid on top. I believe this should create a light tight seal, but what do I know?

Has anyone tried this? Is it feasible?

And before someone even asks, no, I am not afraid of the dark .

Thanks,

Jason

(BTW, I'm working with b/w film only. I also do not plan on using the stacking method with the trays. Single sheet per tray.)

Isn't that what a patterson orbital processor is all about??

[jb7]

So who won the holder?
Only two days to go...

j

[R Mann]

How about using IR night vision headgear? I picked up a set for under $200 - makes working in the dark a matter of choice. Also, I find developing by inspection to be much easier - just like working with paper and safelights. There are a few threads on this if you search.

[mandoman7]

Where do people get the time to develop one sheet of film at a time? After going to the trouble of loading film and going to a site, aren't you going to shoot 5-10 sheets?
If you've spent some time with trays, you can process quite a number of sheets at once. The idea of processing one sheet for half an hour and then another doesn't appeal to me, particularly since there's no advantage, tonally.
Secondly, there's a thing called a streak test, I believe, which is good for judging how even your development is and this should be applied to many of the suggested daylight development methods before getting locked in. Most tanks will show some streaking in a rigorous test I found, when I went to the trouble.

JY

[Eston3]

I use my Paterson daylight tank for growing waterlilies. That was my instructer's advise 30 years ago. And it's still true. Personally I love the Zen aspect of a dip and dunk system for film developing in the dark. However, if you want you could load the film in the film hanger before placing it in a tray. That would allow the chemicals to flow over and under the film, and the holes would randomize any flow pattern. As for light tight, you could try placing it in some sort of 3 box system with a larger one over top of the smaller one. Gees! That just seems like too much trouble. Enjoy the dark!

[ljsegil]

Watch out for Eddie and that 8x10 holder, because he will also have the camera to sell you when your GAS becomes unbearable. However, you cannot do better than to deal with him, and besides, one can enjoy quibbling over price with him as he is a true blue New Yorker (meant in only the best way). 8x10 is a big and beautiful (albeit unnecessary) step over 4x5. The trannies are a thing of beauty; breathtaking when at their best, naked eye and some light all that is needed to fall irrevocably in love. Of course all of this is thoroughly OT, other than accepting that someday, perhaps soon, you will need larger trays/tubes/tanks/whatever and may want to accept the inevitable and plan ahead. It took me less than a year to go from 4x5 through 5x7 to 8x10 (6x17 pano thrown in) and less than three years time to 8x10 from first going back to film from digital purgatory to a wonderful MF kit (Rollei SL66e, still in happily active use); now I shoot almost all 5x7, 6x17, and 8x10 and likewise am in the process of figuring out a darkroom arrangement that will work for me (complicated by the spousal unit's ban on actual new construction in the basement for the forseeable future, though it might already be dark enough as is and I am slowly sneaking in gear when she is turned the other way). This is a slippery and inexorable slope on which we slide, and seems to lead inevitably to perdition and ever increasing format size (now I just gotta try 4x10, "but at least I'm enjoying the ride" (Weir/Barlow)).
Best,
Larry

[ic-racer]

For daylight development of 4x5 I would stick to the more common, tried-and-true techniques.

1) Drum
2) Daylight tank.


As some have pointed out, the experienced worker will select his method of development based on which gives the most even development irrespective of anything else. So, for some this is a 'dark' tank, others it will be trays and others it will be a rotary drum, etc. The more critical you become of your results, the less important things like 'convenience,' 'ease' and 'cost' become.