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Thread: Classic 10x8" Lenses

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Aug 1998
    Posts
    89

    Classic 10x8" Lenses

    Hi

    I'm just getting my 10x8" together, and one of my next purchases will be a lens that I can use for portraiture. I would like to aim for Hollywood/Hurrell-style (I've got a tungsten spot, fresnel, and a book on retouching!). I've been usin g a new Rodenstock 210S with my 5x4", but find that I have to get quite close to my subject for head & shoulder shots. Should I be looking for something a bit longer than this (in relative terms) for 10x8". The equivalent would be 420mm - should I go for 480mm or something else?

    I will be platinum (contact) printing, and I suppose there is no need to buy a n ew lens. I've been trying to find out about some of the older lenses; Cookes, K odak, Goerz, etc. Any thoughts on these? Also, can you recommend any clued-up dealers, preferably in the UK.

    Also, what is a Kodak Portraiture lens - is it a soft-focus lens similar to a Ro denstock Imagon?

    Finally, on a different note, is Kodak Tri-X in 10x8" readily available in the U SA? I live in the UK, and have been waiting about two months for it. Kodak don 't import it, and I'm going through a dealer who's ordered it from someone else, who is importing it from the USA. I obviously can't wait this long whenever I need more film. Any suggestions for dealers who would send to the UK would be m uch appreciated.

  2. #2
    Photographer
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Pine Junction, CO
    Posts
    992

    Classic 10x8" Lenses

    8x10 (as we call it!) Tri-X is very available. You might try Calumet. I believe they have an outlet in the UK. Their website is: www.calumetphoto.com
    Keith Pitman

  3. #3

    Classic 10x8" Lenses

    You should definitely be looking for something longer. Probably something in the high teens, inch wise. You want something that will put you about 8 or 10 feet away from the subject, so perspective will compress, so sunken eyes will come forward and noses go backward.... assuming you want to "stuff the frame" with the head.... err on the side of length, you wont regret it....

    I seem to be preaching this daily on these newsgroups....

    Good luck with the hurrel style, I hope you can work with some good- looking people.... or at least some interesting looking ones.... but then its your job as hurrel to make them interesting, isnt it?

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Oct 1999
    Posts
    154

    Classic 10x8" Lenses

    David, you might want to try the 480 before you buy it. The shallow DOF may be a little concerning.

    Check out a 300.

    Dave.

  5. #5

    Classic 10x8" Lenses

    i'll repeat the advice i've given in similar threads. dof with 8x10 is an important consideration. with a 300 @ 1:2 or so (for a tight portrait) you'll need to stop down quite a bit (f32) to carry focus. figure in bellows factor and even at 400asa you'll need a lot of light. the old guys used pretty powerful lights and many of them. i've shot editorial portraits (head and neck only) with a 360 on 8x10. i had a lot of strobes. i just managed to keep both eyes, chin and forehead in focus at f22 1/3, but i had to use front tilt and swing (i was using a p2 with auto shutter and 2 assistants and, yes, i have very long arms). the ears were way out of focus. the distortion/compression was not objectionable. i wouldn't have been successful with a longer lens nor would i want to attempt to shoot a portrait with a 480 or longer.

    my recommendation is a 14" commercial ektar. they are good quality, easy to find, cheap (relatively) and hold their value if you resell.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Posts
    195

    Classic 10x8" Lenses

    Hi David, yeah with my tiny bit of unprofessional experience, I say go with 12 to 14, and for portraits it don't have to be much of a lens. What I want to know is where did you get the book on retouching? what's its title? is it any good? tri-x might be kind of fast, I don't know. What's wrong with Ilford? While you're waiting for the Kodak shipment to leave their expensive dock in Rochester, you might try some Ilford Ortho plus. For a portrait, shoot it a stop or two fast and develop by inspection a little longer than usual, but don't build up too much density for a portrait. The old Kodak book I found said, you should be able to read a newspaper easily through a portrait neg. Best, David

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Nov 1998
    Posts
    339

    Classic 10x8" Lenses

    I think you'll want an lens around 500mm or so. A 360 will do bellybutton-and-up framing from a fairly comfortable distance but for a fairly tight head shot you 'll be way too close.

    Also bear in mind that you'll need to shoot at very small apertures, probably use a little camera front movement, compensate for extension and use several kil owatts of light to use that sort of lens on an 8x10 that way. Better buy a headc lamp for your subject too.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    405

    Classic 10x8" Lenses

    You know what asking opinions does around here... My two cents: Since your end product is going to be Pt/Pd, I would suggest sticking with the Tri-X suggestion. Speed is of the essence, since you will probably need to expose more deeply and boost your development more than normal just to get the contrast you need for any type of alternative printing. It's always best to create the best neg (and it beats the Hell out of screwing with dichromate to boost the contrast in your paper). So, fast film... Of course you may using a flash or hot lights, which would nullify the need for fast film. Since your priority is portraiture, I would go for a softer lens of longer focal length, but if you also want sharpness for potential landscape or still life or whatever, I would think that a Symmar convertible would be in order. Just pop off the front element and you have a softer, longer lens for portraits. Isn't there a 240/360 version of this lens? You inquired about "classics," and I think this one qualifies. Personally I'm a fan of convertibles and casket sets; don't get me started.

  9. #9

    Classic 10x8" Lenses

    If you are interested in the Hurrell style, take a look at Mark Vieira's book ""Hurrell's Hollywood Portraits." It contains numerous examples of Hurrell's work along with some bits and peices about techniques, including retouching. (I think Vieira also published an article in View Camera about Hurrell.) The book sheds some light on Hurrell's choice of lenses. Early on, Hurrell used a Wollensak Verito. Contrary to poular useage, Hurrell used the Verito at small apertures to increase sharpness and retain some soft focus "halo" effects in the highlights. The use of small apertures (combined with slow films) forced Hurrell to rely on large wattage film lighting. Interestingly, Hurrell seems to have given up the Verito in favor of a Goerz Celor lens. I get the impression that his success allowed him to move up to a "better lens." Hope this info helps.

    .....................................

  10. #10

    Classic 10x8" Lenses

    I forgot to mention the following link:

    http://www.escape.to/jays

    This site offers a book on classic soft-focus lenses. I have not ordered/read the book, but it looks like a useful source. Hope this helps.

    ............................

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