How about some infrared images

[evan clarke]

No, like Stone said Efke = gone. I have around 1000 sheets so am set up for a long run of photographs.

[bob carnie]

thats a bummer

[Andrew O'Neill]

I have about 60 8x10 sheets left of the non-aura stuff. If you want halation, wash the anti-halation layer off (few drops of photoflo), dry it, then shoot it. I did this once, and it worked fine. PITA, though.

[evan clarke]

Andrew, wash it in a tray, drum? Hang it to dry in the dark? I have been thinking about doing just that. I like the bloom from no anti-halation layer.

[Andrew O'Neill]

Yes, in a tray. Three trays, actually. I've done 10 sheets at a time, with a few drops of photoflo in all three trays. The first tray removes the brunt of the anit-halation dye. The second and third trays get rid of any traces. Adding photoflo is pretty important. Temperature was 24C. 5 minutes with constant agitation (shuffling), then a quick dip in the last two trays, then hang. The entire process of course is done in the dark. I have a cupboard with a rope and plastic clothe pegs.

[StoneNYC]

Yes, in a tray. Three trays, actually. I've done 10 sheets at a time, with a few drops of photoflo in all three trays. The first tray removes the brunt of the anit-halation dye. The second and third trays get rid of any traces. Adding photoflo is pretty important. Temperature was 24C. 5 minutes with constant agitation (shuffling), then a quick dip in the last two trays, then hang. The entire process of course is done in the dark. I have a cupboard with a rope and plastic clothe pegs.

I've seen a lot of people talking about how Photoflo could leave residue and cause difficulty in your processor, and so when washing your film at the end, you should use a different tray to add the photoflo into, so if there is photoflo on the film, when you go to actually process it after, is there anything you need to do to prevent any kind of contamination, does it affect the development stage at all, where you have to extend development times or adjust somehow?

[jcoldslabs]

I have been hearing this for years, that Photo-Flo will never wash out and contaminate your tanks and trays. I can't speak for anyone else, but I have been using the same plastic JOBO tank and reels to develop, stop, fix, wash, and soak film in wetting agent for decades and never seen a problem as a result. If you don't wash everything thoroughly once you're finished, then maybe. I don't know what it might do to film that will be exposed afterwards--I'm sure Andrew can tell us--but I have a feeling it washes off well enough not to matter, especially if you pre-soak the sheets before developing.

I did read how James Fee used to not rinse the fix from his developing reels before developing his next roll to create intentional flaws (bubbles, streaks and specks) on his negatives, so it can work in the other direction, too.

Jonathan

[Andrew O'Neill]

James Fee? Hey John, any relation to you?
Stone, I've never had a problem with Photo-Flo contamination. I have only used BTZS tubes and trays. Doesn't affect development nor did I a need to adjust development time. I should have a look and see where those negatives are...

[StoneNYC]

James Fee? Hey John, any relation to you?
Stone, I've never had a problem with Photo-Flo contamination. I have only used BTZS tubes and trays. Doesn't affect development nor did I a need to adjust development time. I should have a look and see where those negatives are...

Gotcha, thanks, well it's a new option.

[evan clarke]

It can be too high a solution..a little goes a long way. My brother in law worked in the photo lab at RIT for 4 years to earn money while he was going to school there. They used a drop of Ivory liquid soap..