AZO Safelights

[Pete Watkins]

I've never used Azo before and I'm looking for advice on safelight filters. Kodak recommend an OC (light amber) filter but the nearest I've got is an OB which is yellow'ish I also have a No. 13. Would either of these safelight filters be safe? I have some old yellow Ilford filters does anybody use an Ilford safelight filter with Azo?
Help!
Pete.

[Dan Schmidt]

azo is so slow that anything that works with other paper will be just fine

[Pete Watkins]

Dan,
Many thanks, I want to do some contacts for my new website and Azo's in short supply.
Pete.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Pete, Dan is right. Azo is very slow. I don't even close my door all the way. I use a Thomas safe light with the vanes wide open. It is like printing in daylight. That is the great thing about Azo.

Jim

[N Dhananjay]

As mentioned above, one of the best combinations is to use a Thomas safelight with vanes wide open, which makes for a very bright darkroom. Which works wonderfully for me - a dark darkroom (?) was terrible for me - I would go from darkness to bright light when I switched on the print evaluation light and that shoft in brightness would 1) completely mess up my print evaluation and 2) really fry my eyes. So the bright darkroom worked very well for me in facilitating print evaluation and workflow.
Cheers, DJ

[Pete Watkins]

Thanks to everybody for their help.
Pete.

[Christopher Breitenstein]

Azo is so slow you can use a 40 watt incandescent bulb. Im kidding. Oc and Thomas Safelights work.

Yours;

[Dan Schmidt]

Azo is so slow you can use a 40 watt incandescent bulb. Im kidding. Oc and Thomas Safelights work.

I use a red colored low wattage bulb i got from target. It is not even a "safe light"

In the room where I print all I did was apply red acetate to the windows. I refer to it as my dimroom. Film processing goes on in a smaller space which is truly dark. Perhaps only the truly UV processes are simpler in terms of requirements for the printing darkroom.