Don,
I wish I could join you. I'm suffering from canyon withdrawal. I've done four river trips in the last six years and I can say that you will have a life-changing experience. I've taken my 4x5 and digital/35mm cameras on each trip. Since you are going on a 21 day river trip, I assuming that it is an oar trip. If so your packing needs will be different. My trips were motor trips.
The best thing you can do is to get in shape. Not only will you be helping to load and unload the boat(s) twice a day (and set up lunch) you also have to set up camp and tear down your camp. In September, you will only have 12 hours of sunlight so you don't want to have to rest to regain your energy so you can hike up into North Canyon. I spend my time in the gym using the stairmaster. There are very few flat hikes in the canyon. Hiking in the canyon is not easy (but it is fun). Get some good sandals (chaco's seem to be a favorite) for boat and camp wear. Some kind of camelback hydration system that you can clip to you camera bag or wear under your life jacket is also helpful -- it helps to keep down the water bottle clutter.
I would bring a pelican case to keep your film as dust, sand and water free as possible. Paint the case white to avoid cooking the film. I have seen other photographers use old ammo cans to keep film dry.
As for film, I used velvia 50 and provia 100 quickloads. Bring a spare quickload holder and ground glass. I shot 1 to 2 boxes a day. Bracketing is your best friend. The canyon can be a high contrast environment but most if not all of your large format shooting will be done early in the morning or late in the evening. The side canyons are where some of the best photography can be found. You'll be using nice low contrast reflected light off of canyon walls in the side canyons
Keep your camera in a Lowepro Dryzone bag, if possible, and then keep that in a large drysack. You only want to get into your pelican case only while off the water.
I have a Tachihara 4x5 and my lens choices are somewhat limited. I used a Schneider 80mm, Fujinon 125mm, Gold Rim Dagor 150mm and 210mm, a Schneider 270mm and a Fujinon 400mm Telephoto. All the lenses are kept in two Gnass Gear lens cases along with extra cable releases.
Bring a carbon fiber tripod. Your knees will thank you. I made the switch from aluminum to carbon fiber after my first trip. I kept my tripod in an ordinary tripod case. Your tripod will take a beating while being used in the canyon. I've had a tripod submerged up to the head at least once every trip. Really Right Stuff makes a head that will handle your 4x5 quite well.
Bring a digital (or film camera) for the boat. Some of the best images from my last trip are from the boat. I used my old Nikon D70 as my boat camera. I kept it around my neck and used a gallon freezer zip-lock bag to keep the spray off it. Be prepared to have to repair/service whatever camera you use. It will get trashed. My D70 still works but it is in bad need of servicing.
As far as locations, every ten feet is a good location. Some of the highlights are: North canyon, national canyon, Havasui canyon, Matcatamabi (sp) canyon, veaseys paradise, olo canyon, monument canyon, lava falls, Whitmore canyon, Nankoweep grainerys, Conquistator Aisle, Elves chasm, Confluence of the Little Colorado, Deer Creek Falls, Shinumo Falls, etc. Some of these are campsites, others are day use only. My last trip was with Gary Ladd and he decided to see the lesser visited places along the river. It was great not to be in competition for campsites from other groups and I have some awesome images from those places.
The first book I would pick up is Gary Ladd's "Grand Canyon - Time Below the Rim" book. Next would be "The Grand" by Steve Miller. I also recommend "Breaking into the Current: Boatwomen of the Grand Canyon" by Louise Teal and
"There's This River..." By Christa Sadlerso so you can get a feel for what 21 days on the river will feel like.
As far as clothing, wear stuff that you don't care about trashing. I wouldn't bring more than two or three changes of clothes. You'll want rain gear, long underwear, fleece but don't go overboard. I've spent 40 days in paradise over 4 trips and there is nothing more frustrating then to pack and unpack something out of your drysack that you just don't need. Bring crazy glue and lots of it. Your fingers will split due to the low humidity and alkaline water. Using crazy glue to seal the cracks works much better than a bandage. Here's a link to the Arizona Rafting Adventures website that goes into all packing and clothing needs: http://www.azraft.com/gc_info-equip....rOpen=submenu3.
If you have any more questions, just send me a pm.
Hope this helps,
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