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Thread: wood query?

  1. #11

    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    2,639

    Re: wood query?

    Ah yes Brian. Unfortunately my concert guitar was Cedar fronted and Rosewood backed, or else I would have gone for my namesake


    Thanks for the help so far everyone

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    31

    Re: wood query?

    I agree with those that suggest wood plugs instead of putty, if nothing else they'll be stronger. I stripped a beater Crown and immediately gave up on the idea of trying to make patches match the mahogany (even though I did use solid mahogany to do the patching), the holes are just too large. I also used a bit of filler (two-part, with a hardener to make a very solid patch) to fill small holes. Then I bought some mahogany veneer and veneered the sides and top of the case. Because the veneer matched the edges of the existing wood it was easy to blend it out to the point that it looks like the case is built up from solid wood. The only hitch is that you lose the finger joints so a purest would know immediately that it's veneer. Looks good to me though, and it was easy to finish with some dark mahogany stain and polyurethane. The poly isn't the best-looking finish around but it's very durable.

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    57

    Re: wood query?

    Hi Ash

    There may be another option, in regards to dealing with the voids left by removal of the focal-plane shutter: incorporate them (and/or create more voids) in a pleasing-to-the-eye fashion. This would also further-lessen the weight, which is one of your goals.

    The remaining body-wood would, of course, be finished normally.

    This comes to mind due to a Camera Builder's idea I saw. Tho he builds rather than modifies, one of his designs looks very much like a Graphic-style body, as if carved-out to create a body with open areas. It seems similar might be possible as part of a Speed Graphic modification.

    I find his approach quite lovely! Go here and see his Green Camera:

    http://users.libero.it/qua.fabio/

  4. #14
    C. D. Keth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Salt Lake City, UT
    Posts
    1,841

    Re: wood query?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ash View Post
    Ah yes Brian. Unfortunately my concert guitar was Cedar fronted and Rosewood backed, or else I would have gone for my namesake


    Thanks for the help so far everyone
    I've never heard of ash being much of a tonewood. Now if you played baseball...
    Chris

    Quote Originally Posted by Pawlowski6132 View Post
    Grow a pair and go shoot.

  5. #15

    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    20mins north of boston
    Posts
    496

    Re: wood query?

    I have yet to see anything that beats a true blue French Polish job! I have even seen some Lacquar jobs that came close, But of course the time involved is great:

    As for Ash its great when properly machined as molding around windows and door frames, But the Human ash does not machine that well:
    Lauren MacIntosh

    Whats in back of you is the past and whats in front of you is the future now in the middle you have choices to make for yourself:

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    37

    Re: wood query?

    Quote Originally Posted by janepaints View Post
    Hiya

    I've refurbed two wooden-bodied cameras, similar to what you're doing.

    The finish I use is incredibly easy to do, dries instantly, looks great, is 100% waterproof. I learned about it through luthier's (fiddle & guitar makers) sites. It's routinely used on high-end electric guitar necks & bodies, gunstocks, turned-wood craftwork, handmade old-fashioned pens etc.

    Super glue and linseed oil. Linseed oil (and similar natural drying oils) 'dries' via a slow chemical polymerization process. Somebody discovered that when super glue meets linseed oil the process happens instantly.

    Tools:
    1. Super Glue. The kind with a brush built into the bottletop makes it easier to use.

    2. Good quality linseed oil. Try the stuff sold at art supply stores for an oil painting medium. Get a small bottle--a little goes a long, long way. Linseed oil sold as guitar 'fretboard oil' or for violin varnish formulation is good too.

    3. The 'better quality' paper towels. Thicker ones, not shreddy or linty. 'Shop Paper Towels' sold in hardware store are best. They're usually blue, not white.

    4. (optional but WAY nice). Tints. You add them to the linseed oil before mixing with the glue. That way you can tint the wood any color ya want. I use 'Tints-All' brand in 1.5 ounce tubes--gotten at paint stores. (House Paint stores--not Artists Paint stores.)

    5. Q-tips or small brush.

    Method:

    1. Wood should be sanded or scraped to final smoothness. Remove any lingering dust with tack cloth--or rub with Denatured Alcohol and allow to dry.

    2. Work in small areas--about 2" x 2" at a time. Don't worry about streaking or build-up. This stuff goes on very thin and each area will overlap previous ones with no trace of smudginess. It's one of those 'Modern Miracle' things.

    3. Smear or brush the linseed oil onto the wood, about a 1" little puddle

    4. brush or drip a small puddle of super glue next-to (but not on) the linseed oil...then IMMEDIATELY:

    5. rub the two puddles together, every-which-way, to-and-fro, circles or back and forth, any direction is okay. It won't spread far and will begin to harden as you watch.

    6. thow away the paper towel and grab a fresh one. One towel for each 'patch'.

    7. repeat, starting the 'next patch' immediately-adjoining the one you've just done. Don't worry about overlap--none will be visible. As you proceed the patches already done will look like one seamless area. Like I said, it's magic. Keep repeating until entire camera body is done.

    8. When done, if you missed any areas, just go back and fill them in using the same technique. If you want to build up a very thick finish, just do a second coat.

    8. Rub it all over with more paper towels or a soft rag. If any area feels oily or 'wet', that means there wasn't enough super glue applied there. Repeat the process there to fix it.

    It's a modern take on ''French Polishing' but WAY easier and about 10 hours faster. And unlike anything using shellac, totally waterproof. Immune to most solvents also.

    Caution: Work in a well-ventilated area. Superglue fumes can be nasty. Don't use too much glue or lean too close over the job. A little dab will do ya.

    I've used this finish on cameras, banjo rims, guitar necks, and paint brush handles (makes 'em resistant to water and solvents). I'm always amazed by how good it works and looks...and by how easy it is.

    --------------------
    Another easy option but not as nice-looking or durable:

    1. Deft (spray-can) Wood Laquer. Luthiers use it for non-fancy violin and guitar finishes. Spray many thin coats. Buff, steel wool or Micro Fiber between coats and for final polishing.

    I'll take a pic of my little Korona VII finished with glue-and-oil and post it here for ya. Gotta go borrow housemate's digital camera.

    I'll also try to locate the luthier's sites which spell out the glue-n-oil process in detail, and provide the URL's for ya.

    ------
    Another option: veneer the body. This will hide the lumps and bumps n' holes n' wood filler...you can veneer the lensboards too so everything matches! like this person did such a lovely job with:

    http://home.online.no/~gjon/crown99.htm
    New URL: http://jongrepstad.com/building-a-la...raphic-camera/

    Jon Grepstad
    http://jongrepstad.com/

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