Rome and Florence

[John Kasaian]

I agree with Ron Marshall, the learning curve isn't all that steep, but managing the equipment takes some getting used to. If what you're contemplating dosen't require perspective control (movements) a Crown Graphic should work out fine. If OTOH you're considering timed exposures or movements, something like a Gowland Pocket View would IMHO make for delightful travelling companion. Both these are very lightwieght so they won't require a heavy tripod---the Crown won't really even need a tripod. Conversely you can get something like a Technika and have the best of both worlds (but wiegh more!) Another item to consider is using grafmatics rather than conventional filim holders.
Perhaps one approach is to study LF 'togs whose work is similar to your vision, learn which LF camera & gear they shoot with, why and how.
Good luck & enjoy the wine!

[John Kasaian]

...and as far as how long it takes to set up, once you become sympatico with your gear you can set up remarkably fast, but it takes awhile to reach that particular plateau. Having a camera you enjoy shooting helps, as does being able to guesstimate the light by being your own light meter (at least sometimes.)

[Frank Petronio]

I'd avoid a tripod altogether, the classic spots are busy places with lots of security that will rightly or wrongly hassle you. Think handheld and fluid, not "point and shoot" but remember that you can fix a tilted horizon later on as well.

Have you seen the Razzle modified Polaroid 110s? They are even smaller than a Crown Graphic and quite elegant.

Another option would be to use a good 6x9 roll film camera, like the old Fuji Rangefinders, those were the bomb and an order of magnitude easier to manage for travel. The Mamiya 6x7 Rangefinders are pretty awesome too.

[John Kasaian]

I'd avoid a tripod altogether,

Amen to that!

[scott_6029]

If your heart is set on 4x5, I would go light (shen hao?) and a nice quick release tripod head and graphite tripod with readyloads (think light). Stick with one lens - 180 or 210 - again keep it light..as above, don't check film. Above all, enjoy yourself...don't get angst over making images...

[Richard Raymond]

Jordan,
My recommendations on gear are for lenses: Look at Kerry Thalmann's list of light weight lenses. Choose the ones that fit your "vision". I tend to work on the long focal length side so I tend to favor something like 110mm, 180mm, 240mm for a set...but that is my preference. For a camera I would look at something like the Wista/Zone VI camera because it is built to allow the camera to be folded and closed with a lens attached. Other cameras you might want to look at are the technical cameras that have "stops" like the Horseman, Linhof or Wista SP. This would allow for quick initial focusing and you could also get a rangefinder version of one of these to allow for full range focusing and a more spontaneous approach to shooting. These last cameras would be a little heavier and have fewer movements but you should look at them before buying if they fit your approach to photography. I am sure that there are others but that is the one I am familiar with. For example, if you shoot 150mm you could use a Fuji F6.3 in a Seiko shutter and when you set up you can quickly look at the composition. This also helps because you now have one less lens floating in your equipment bag. For film, I would use quickloads or readyloads depending on your preference for film.
Ric
Ric

[Richard Raymond]

Jordan,
Sorry, forgot the tripod. I would recommend something like the Velbon Chaser ELF 4. Weights about 4 pounds, closes to between 20 and 21 inches with a head and would be sturdy enough that with a small field camera and careful technique one can get some good pictures. Also, don't forget that there will be many "local camera supports" such as shooting street scenes with the camera placed on the table at the cafe, using a wall, bench, the edge of a fountain, the Spanish Steps, etc.
Ric

[ThinkBox]

As far as Tripods go - I own a Manfrotto 3021BN w/ Manfrotto 322RC2 Ball Grip Head.

Sticks: http://www.amazon.com/Bogen-Manfrott.../dp/B00006I52Y
Head: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...413503-0965548

[Marco Annaratone]

I would strongly caution you about shooting LF in Rome and Florence at Christmas time. Mind you, such an objection is not the one to react to like "wow, then it gets really challenging and exciting and fun". No, you will most likely be disappointed for reasons explained very well already in other posts, and because of that your non-LF photography may suffer as well.

Indeed, an MF rangefinder would be an ideal tool.

Cheers!

[Scott Davis]

Your legset is fine but that ballhead will be a royal pain to work with LF other than a Speed/Crown Graphic. Your range of movement with it is very limited, and more importantly, that head has a single control for all movements of the head. You can't pan with it without unlocking the tilt of the ballhead, and with a 4x5, that means it is highly likely to come unlevelled when you want to pan the camera. Very Bad.

If you can, get a standard ballhead - there are some nice Chinese ones out there now, as well as the Bogen/Gitzo/Arca products. With a field 4x5, the head size isn't critical (I used to use the same Bogen ballhead I had for my 35mm/Hasselblad stuff with my Shen Hao, then upgraded to a Gitzo ballhead (the wierd-looking but very useful side-mount ballhead, with individual controls for pan and tilt). Ideally, you want a head that has separate controls for the ball tension and panning the head.