It's something that works best as a series, as you have presented it. It's very difficult to present meaningful images of this type subject matter, but the series approach really makes the images feed each other.Originally Posted by tim atherton
It's something that works best as a series, as you have presented it. It's very difficult to present meaningful images of this type subject matter, but the series approach really makes the images feed each other.
Have no idea why this was posted either!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jan L Pedersen
The fixer need to get to the back to clear the negative and that is a constant problem for me. I have used 50% more chemistry than called fore but still need to clear the film in a tray. Not that exited about the Expert drum (3005).
__________________
Brian Ellis
Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you do criticize them you'll be
a mile away and you'll have their shoes.
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Last edited by Brian Ellis : Today at 18:44. Reason: Have no idea why it was posted
I didn't realize anyone would care enough to respond but if you must know, I planned a response and then decided not to send it so I erased my response but apparently inadvertantly hit the "submit" key.
Brian Ellis
Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you do criticize them you'll be
a mile away and you'll have their shoes.
What model from unicolor would you recommend for 3010 and 3005? These drum are huge, I just got mine today.
I had similar problems with 8x10 FP4+ in the 3005. With some help from a Ilford QC-type person, we nailed it down to using a fixer with a hardener (Kodak Rapid Fix).
The last two batches of negs through the 3005 using Ilford Rapid Fixer (w/ no hardener) have yielded great results (with no out-of-the-drum fixing tray). Film can also have a gelatin layer on the back to counter the gelatin on the emulsion side -- to reduce the curling of the film when dry. My pet theory is that the gelatin on the back would get hardened by the fixer and would not totally release the anti-halation layer...I would actually end up with some white gunk (salts of some kind) left on the back of the film when dried.
When I run out of the Ilford Rapid Fixer, I will try some Kodak Rapid Fixer, but I will leave out the hardener.
Vaughn
Vaughn, good to hear about your experience. I usually use the Zonal Pro EC Rapid Fixer but last week bought some TF4 from Formulary. No difference seen yet.
Will in a few minutes try the Unicolor base to see if a slower rotation speed will improve anything.
The Film i have developed with same results are TMY, TXP, Delta 100, Fomapan 200 and Classic 200
Good luck, Jan. These things can be very very frustrating.
I also do a pre-soak for 10 minutes -- most of the antihalation layer comes off with the presoak...at least with Ilford films.
Vaughn
Well, Something points to the rotating speed of the Beseler base.
My last run of Delta 100 came out fine, only variable changed was the motor base.
The Unicolor is about half the speed of the Beseler so will stick to that one and see if i can get a good relationship with the Expert drum going.
Have never presoaked for 10 minutes but will try should the problem come back.
Thanks for the tip Vaughn.
jan
My ten-minute pre-soak is perhaps a bit towards excessiveness.
Great to hear about your success with the Unicolor base. Did you check on the wind speed outside? I swear that there are variables that affect our processes that we just don't know about!
Vaughn
PS...I am using about 500ml of fixer. I use a liter of water for the pre-soak, changed once during the pre-soak...probably do not need to change the water, but I am just standing there anyway. It gives me a feeling that I am actually doing something!
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