Digital Back on Sinar Camera

[adevoe]

So my school photography department has a few Phase One Digital Backs that are available for student use (22mp and 39mp), but they are all in Mamiya mount, and the Photo Cage doesn't have any sort of stitching adapter for the 4x5 view cameras that they have.

So, I am wondering if there is an economical (remember its not my back, and I'm a student!) way to attach a Mamiya mount digital back to a Sinar F1? I have seen the stuff at KaptureGroup, but the $1000-$4000 adapters cost more than my entire 4x5 setup did. Does anyone know of a good place to get this gear cheap/used? I've tried ebay for about a month, and haven't seen much, as its a pretty specific piece of gear I'm looking for.

Thanks,
Alex DeVoe

[neil poulsen]

The only 3rd party adapters of which I'm aware are from Kapture Group. Another possibility is to give S.K.Grimes a call and see what they can do. (www.skgrimes.com)

[B.S.Kumar]

Alex,

I've used sliding adapters from Sinar, PhaseOne, Mergin-X and WidePan. The Sinar was the smoothest, followed by the Mergin-X. The PhaseOne FlexAdapter and WidePan were about the same.

There are many adapters from China on eBay. Search for "Moveable adapter for Mamiya 645 to 4x5 Sinar" They're not as smooth as the ones from Kapture Group or Sinar, but they'll do the job.

But you should look for a Mamiya>Graflok or Sinar back adapter. Stitching can be done using the Sinar's movements. I now use one that came with my Imacon. It looks like it was made in China. Currently they seem to be available fro Arca and Linhof, but I think if you ask them, they can supply a Sinar or Graflok mount as well.

Kumar

[adevoe]

Thanks for the info. I guess part of the problem was that I didn't know what to search for in the first place.

I have done the stitching with camera movements, as I have an adapter for my DSLR, but the problem with the F1 is that the swing and shift lock is the same lever, and if I throw off the swing while shifting things can get a little goofy, no matter how much i try to set it back to where it was. This might not be as much of a problem with a MFDB due to the significantly fewer number of shots I would need to make.

Maybe I should just sell my F1, and make the jump to the F2, or just find a front standard...

[rdenney]

Thanks for the info. I guess part of the problem was that I didn't know what to search for in the first place.

I have done the stitching with camera movements, as I have an adapter for my DSLR, but the problem with the F1 is that the swing and shift lock is the same lever, and if I throw off the swing while shifting things can get a little goofy, no matter how much i try to set it back to where it was. This might not be as much of a problem with a MFDB due to the significantly fewer number of shots I would need to make.

Maybe I should just sell my F1, and make the jump to the F2, or just find a front standard...

It's the rear standard you would need. If you want your stitches to line up, you should be shifting only the rear standard, and leaving the lens in its original spot.

Rick "who would leave the rear standard on the detent and do the critical swings on the front standard" Denney

[B.S.Kumar]

Or better, look for a P rear standard. The geared movemements will make life much easier.

Kumar

[adevoe]

Duh. Rear standard movements it is. Thanks for the advice on movements and on the geared P standard, both of you. This might make life SIGNIFICANTLY easier. hah.

[JustinB]

Can you actually combine F and P standards? It looks (though I have not tested) like the P rear standard is going to have a lateral shift WRT the F front standard.

[rdenney]

Can you actually combine F and P standards? It looks (though I have not tested) like the P rear standard is going to have a lateral shift WRT the F front standard.

No, both cameras center the standards over the rail at the zero shift point.

The more likely difference is the height of the standard over the rail. With an F front and a P rear, you'll need to raise the front somewhat to line it up. The F2 front has taller legs for rise and fall, and will give you more room to do so (in addition to the F2 front having geared focus, which the F and F1 front does not).

The P standard mounts on the bearer to one side of the center point, and this produces the optical illusion that the standard is offset. But it is not. Shift is not done at the base of the standard as it is with the F, but rather it is geared and part of the bearer.

Rick "thinking it was the Sinar X (or maybe the C) that was a P on one end and an F2 on the other" Denney