We need to clarify; I assume what Keith wants is a neutral-colored print as in n ot warmtone or cooltone, just as neutral as possible, rather than looking for th e highest D-Max possible.
Correct?
We need to clarify; I assume what Keith wants is a neutral-colored print as in n ot warmtone or cooltone, just as neutral as possible, rather than looking for th e highest D-Max possible.
Correct?
Hi, It Keith again... Thanks for the input so far - I have considered all of it. John asked for clarification: I do want a deep DMax, but I don't want the blue-black or green-black or brown-blacks etc. I want only black - no hint/tint/color/hue and so on. I don't know if that is 'neutral' or 'cold'. I will try the different dilutions of ethol. I presently use 'neutral', I will conpare to both a more dilute (warm) and a more concentrated developer (cold). I saw a print when I was out in Calif by an old guy named 'Adams' - The thing had jet black shadows and they were CLEAN - not a hint of any color. As alway, thanks for your thoughful input. Keith
OK, I assumed right. Ilford MGIV fiber in LPD 1:3, toned in Kodak selenium toner 1:4 two to three minutes.
You're working with a two-part problem; you need a paper and developer that gi ve you neutral color plus doesn't take on a color when selenium-toned. MGIV fibe r is that paper. Lots of people grouse that MGIV fiber _doesn't_ change color in selenium.
Now...you've noted that LPD will vary color according to dilution; it does a b it but not tremendously. Also, if the paper color is a little warm (brownish) yo u can cool it with the addition of a little benzotriazone or Edwal Liquid Orthaz ite to the developer.
Display illumination is also a factor; tungsten lights make a print look warm while fluorescents make it look cool. RC really goofs up color; the titanium dio xide brightener fluoresces.
I bet Mr. Adams never printed on RC paper. If you want to imitate his "Look" you need fiber paper. My all time favourite is Ilford Gallery. It's very neutral right after fixation and I normally give it just a touch of selenium toning (diluted 1:20 or so) - this will intensify the blacks, but not shift the color.
I hate to say it, but black is a color to the human eye. Most people find a reddish/bluish black more aesthetically pleasing than a green black, and thus the popularity of selenium.
My advice is to find a chip or sample of a black you find acceptable under your final print evaluation light and compare various paper D- Maxes to it. That's similar to the process I used as a textile colorist...
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