large format and climbing

[Brian K]

Paul it looks like you're hanging from a sneaker lace........

a 4x5 on a cliff face doing a landscape is no big deal, let's see him do a table top still life there.....

[Ben R]

How the hell did he focus and compose, doesn't look like much room there for his head!

[Eric James]

I didn't mean to come across so snarky on the found gear comment.

I think the more interesting discussion here is about dropped gear - Schneider or Black Diamond. It's remarkable how little gets dropped. Eight ElCap walls and notta - that's something to brag about eddie. For me, maybe six pieces in 25 years, and most of that on the first or second pitch. Being on the sharp end and using a view camera are similar in many ways - focus, concentration, creativity, hard work; and there are times when a found quick drawn is as valuable as a 110 SS XL.

Paul, those anchor shots are hilarious - I've seen worse but I always hope for better. Have you seen the book Yosemite Climber, ED. George Meyers? There's a shot of a Bridwell anchor: five RURPs "equalized" with clove hitches.

Here's an essay from that book:

http://www.cs.colorado.edu/~jrblack/westbay_niad.html

[QT Luong]

What's exactly so strange about those anchors shots (I mean besides the guy with the goofy expression) ? This level of protection is commonly used in Alpine (done by alpinists in the Alps) climbing.

[eddie]

what routes in the tetons forced you to use sketchy stuff? i've always gotten pretty lucky there.

har har har! it was the off routes stuff that made it sketchy! somehow i loose my way at times.

eddie

Being on the sharp end and using a view camera are similar in many ways - focus, concentration, creativity, hard work; and there are times when a found quick drawn is as valuable as a 110 SS XL.

Paul, those anchor shots are hilarious - I've seen worse but I always hope for better. Have you seen the book Yosemite Climber, ED. George Meyers? There's a shot of a Bridwell anchor: five RURPs "equalized" with clove hitches.

Here's an essay from that book:

http://www.cs.colorado.edu/~jrblack/westbay_niad.html

yeah! one of the best similarities is the HUGE amounts of gear you must carry along with you!!! i am not sure which is worse!

i have seen that 5 RURP anchor photo. all i have to say is i am glad i did not jug on that one......but if i did i would want bridwell to have placed it. i met jim one day a long time ago.....what a guy!

eddie

[paulr]

i haven't seen that book, but i'd believe just about anything about bridwell. talk about a hardcore, twinkie-eating, chain-smoking unstopable dude.

speaking of the nose and hardcore dudes, have you seen the video of dean potter prancing up the thing?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaPm1ziBo6c

those anchors of ours are only scary because we took them out of context in the pictures. that was pretty safe terrain with no possibilit for a factor 2 fall. up on the more serious pitches we always got plenty of gear ... it wasn't such a hardcore route that we were forced to be sketchy.

we have a lot of friends who are safety nazis, but who have never climbed alpine. we took those pics to frighten them!