Shen Hao 8X10

[Dave_B]

With everything fully extended, you can move the top of the front and rear standard something like 1-2mms by applying a modest force with your hands. If you shake the bed, the standards are pretty rigid and do not seem to move relative to each other. Comparing 4x5 and 8x10 cameras is probably not a reasonable thing to do but fully extended, the Shen Hao feels qualitatively as solid as my Ebony (4x5) to me. One of the things not shown clearly in the photos is a nice set of tapped, metal insert screw holes on the front base so that one can add a support arm if one wishes. A better view of the tapped holes is shown below.
Cheers,
Dave B.

[John Hoang]

Congratulations and thanks for sharing, Dave. It sure looks beautiful. I am really surprised at the weight. The camera actual weight is usually heavier than advertised.

[Jan Pedersen]

Oh nooo. How can i possibly sleep now? I want one! Do have the 4x5 but this 8x10 is in a different leaque.
Thanks for posting those photos

[Jack Flesher]

One of the things not shown clearly in the photos is a nice set of tapped, metal insert screw holes on the front base so that one can add a support arm if one wishes. A better view of the tapped holes is shown below.
Cheers,
Dave B.

Not to be a smart-a$$ Dave, but you do know those threaded holes are not specifically for mounting front supports? They are actually the underside of the hole sets for mounting the front standarrd rearward when you use shorter lenses. You do not need to angle the the front standard as you did with rear base and forward axial tilts to get there, and instead, the screw that holds the front standard base is removed and the entire standard is re-positioned in the rear holes for shorter lenses. At least that's how it works on the Phillips and I assume the Shen...

Thanks for the feedback on rigiity -- it sounds plenty adequate! Also, Don asked about the finish on the aluminum -- is it clear anodaized or naked metal?

Thanks,

[Amund BLix Aaeng]

Not to be a smart-a$$ Dave, but you do know those threaded holes are not specifically for mounting front supports? They are actually the underside of the hole sets for mounting the front standarrd rearward when you use shorter lenses. You do not need to angle the the front standard as you did with rear base and forward axial tilts to get there, and instead, the screw that holds the front standard base is removed and the entire standard is re-positioned in the rear holes for shorter lenses. At least that's how it works on the Phillips and I assume the Shen...

Yep, that`s right, just like the 5x7 version, wich I have.

[archivue]

i had the oportunity to play with one of these...
rigidity ? more rigid than the metal canham... less rigid than the canham made of wood... just in between !
considering the fact that there's plenty of wind over here, i change my mind, and keep my norma... raising money for a phillips or an arca misura 8x10.
I don't see the point to make not perfect 8x10 slides (because of wind), when i can make perfect 4x5 (arca Fline Field 110-141)...

[Dave_B]

Not to be a smart-a$$ Dave, but you do know those threaded holes are not specifically for mounting front supports? They are actually the underside of the hole sets for mounting the front standarrd rearward when you use shorter lenses. You do not need to angle the the front standard as you did with rear base and forward axial tilts to get there, and instead, the screw that holds the front standard base is removed and the entire standard is re-positioned in the rear holes for shorter lenses. At least that's how it works on the Phillips and I assume the Shen...

Thanks for the feedback on rigiity -- it sounds plenty adequate! Also, Don asked about the finish on the aluminum -- is it clear anodaized or naked metal?

Thanks,

You were not being a smart-a$$. You told me something I did not know and thank you for that. I appreciate learning something new every day from this forum and today is no exception. I guess that this post points out the only knock on the camera that I have-no instruction manual and not much on the web.

The aluminum is clear anodaized. It has a smooth, clear matt finish. They look nice.
Cheers,
Dave B.

[Turner Reich]

That's a very nice camera, is the wood walnut or teak? How do you like the bellows?

[Dave_B]

Attached is a picture of the camera set up for short focal length lenses by using the mounting holes that let you move the front standard backwards.
Cheers,
Dave B.

[Dave_B]

That's a very nice camera, is the wood walnut or teak? How do you like the bellows?

The wood is not teak. It is something like walnut although it does not look exactly like the walnut I am used to seeing. It is a little lighter than what I am used to. It is nicely finished however and is as hard as walnut. Teak is generally pretty soft wood and not very strong. This stuff looks strong and tough.
The bellows is very nice. It is well folded and does not bind at short distances or at long extensions. At the longest extensions you will probably need to support it in the middle to keep it from sagging into the image on the screen. It is not leather, but feels like some kind of non-slippery fabric material. It seems as well made as the rest of the camera.
Cheers,
Dave B.