I ought to know this, but I don't. Is it o.k. to use Kodad Rapid Fix without the hardener? I have never used it before. I usually use the regular Kodak fixer (p owder), but me and my supplier are out. I need to make some prints right away. A ny keeping problems or loss of permanence if I don't use the hardener with the r apid fix? I want to tone the prints in selenium, so I don't want to use the hard ener. Thanks.
OK to use the fixer without the hardener. Toning is easier and it's easier to wash out the fixer and fixer residual compounds. Emulsion might be or might not be a bit soft, but the risk is low with a print since you can see the damage immediately if you cause any, and you can always reprint.
I want to put in a plug for Photographer's Formulary TF4 fixer. It clears my negatives in 30 seconds, has high capacity, and is alkaline rather than acidic. With a water wash rather than acid stop bath, the whole process is alkaline, which is much gentler on the emulsion, which I believe stays hard as a result.
OK to use the fixer without the hardener. Toning is easier and it's easier to wash out the fixer and fixer residual compounds. Emulsion might be or might not be a bit soft, but the risk is low with a print since you can see the damage immediately if you cause any, and you can always reprint.
I want to put in a plug for Photographer's Formulary TF4 fixer. It clears my negatives in 30 seconds, has high capacity, and is alkaline rather than acidic. With a water wash rather than acid stop bath, the whole process is alkaline, which is much gentler on the emulsion, which I believe stays hard as a result.
---Second post because I'm not sure the first one took.
Thanks, Charlie. I will handle the prints gently until they are dry.
Doug,
Regular Kodak powder fixer is a very strong hardening fix. Rapid Fix without hardener can be just fine, but it will leave the prints a lot softer than what you are used to. Unhardened prints and films seem to have become the norm recently, but your individual water supply may leave the prints too soft (it does in Southern New England where I live). You can also use *less* of the hardening solution than the rather heavy dose in the instrux. That's in fact what I generally do.-- -Carl
Appreciate the tip, Carl. I normally fix my prints in the powdered Kodak fixer, then wash, fix again in Ilford fixer without the hardener, and then directly into the selenium. I let myself run out of everything at once. I will use the rapid fix on a test print and if it needs hardening a little I will mix a weak hardening solution. I am in South Alabama and our water is a little on the hard side. I will see how it does with the test print.
Regards, Doug.
Regards
> Kodad Rapid Fix without the hardener
Sure, no problem. The emulsion _may_ be soft and prone to being easily scratch ed, especially if your summer wash water is warm. I haven't had any trouble with Ilford FB papers here in Florida.
Also, fwiw, C-41 fixer is the same, mix 1:3 for a film-strength rapid fix.
I never use hardener for negatives or prints. Be careful not to scratch the emulsion while it is wet.
This brings up a point; we see lots of assertions that TF-4 is superior to ordin ary fixer because it's alkaline.
Can anyone refer me to any tests that support this claim or the notion that an all-alkaline process is somehow better? I'm not wanting to start a fight, just curious.
John, gelatine is an organic protein, derived from animal tissue. All proteins tend to soften and decompose in alkaline solutions. This is why developer feels slippery and slightly slimy to the fingers. The alkali in the developer is decomposing your epidermal tissue, and coating your fingers with a thin solution of your own skin! (Don't worry, it was dead tissue already, and you've got a few billion more body cells to spare).
I too would like to see the evidence for alkali fixer having a long term benefit to the emulsion.
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