BW 4x5 processing. Newbie needs advice.

[manjo]

I am new to BW 4x5, I have shot color slides so far. I got into LF only 2yrs ago. I would like to shoot more BW and process it myself. I have to admit that my job&wife restrict my photography to only few months a year, I shoot in bursts, I take a couple of weeks off and shoot around 50 sheets traveling place to place. then there are several months of break.

One reason I want to get into BW photog is so that I can explore the creative side, I have done a lot of shooting at national parks etc, and I feel like this is already done so many times. Also BW will allow me to pick more abstract subjects and hopefully help me shoot more around town and at home.

So, given that here are the three questions I have.



1. I understand that photo chemicals dont live for long periods typically 6months (correct?). What chemicals should I get that would be most economical for me? I dont want to buy chems process once and have to rebuy the next time I shoot. am I better off buying premixed concetrated solutions? or does powder have greater shelf life.?

2. I love the idea of the jobo processor, but I think that I am not ready for it given the frequency with which I shoot. I am looking at the HP combi-plan tank. What are your thoughts ? Its not practical for me to do tray processing due to space restrictions.

3. I am better off paying $2.50 persheet for processing instead?

Thanks for your suggestions & advice

[Paul Ewins]

I'm in Australia, so the prices are different, but I expect that $5 - $8 would buy you a gallon pack of ID11 or D76 in powder form. These are very popular developers (almost the same thing, but not quite) so you should be able to get advice on developing times for almost any combination of film, temperature and push or pull. In powder form they should last for many years.

They also make a good yard stick, in that when somebody recommends another developer they should be able to explain what that developer does compared to ID11/D76. Unfortunately whenever you ask the "what developer do you recommend" question you'll get a list of everybody's favourite developer but no clear idea of which one is best for you. If you can ask a question like 'I'm using D76 and my negs are too X or don't have enough Y" then the answers will be a lot more relevant.

I started developing with a Yankee tank which I believe is a distant ancestor of the Combiplan. It worked, but I wouldn't call it great. I've graduated to a second hand Jobo CPP2 with expert drums which is excellent. If you are thinking about a Jobo then maybe get the 2509n reel for the 2500 series drum and use it on one of the old Beseler or Cibachrome print drum electric roller bases. Although the 2509n reel will hold six negs I found it easier to only use four. This can be done in a large changing bag so you don't need a dark room at all.

[Ralph Barker]

Considering the decline in pro lab services, particularly with respect to B&W processing, I'm of the opinion that processing yourself is the best way to go. Doing so gives you control over the entire process. Although I tray process my B&W LF film, the HP Combiplan tank has been discussed many times in the past, mostly with positive comments. If you're space-limited, that's probably a good way to go.

As to developers, based on your shooting cycles, I'd suggest you consider the liquid concentrates, like Ilford DD-X or Ilfotec HC. Generally, the higher the concentration (as with Ilfotec HC), the longer the concentrate will last in opened bottles. Often, that's several months to nearly a year. Unopened, well-stored bottles will last a couple of years. Additionally, there are the Pyro formulations to consider.

[Ron Marshall]

I have both the Jobo 3006 and the Combi-plan. The Jobo is easier to load and drain/fill, but the Combi works fine. I use the Combi mostly for semi-stand development.

HC-110 and Rodinal are both concentrates that keep well, as are the ones that Ralph mentioned.

[PViapiano]

HC-110, as mentioned above, lasts forever in concentrate form. Use it one shot mixed straight from the syrup; a perfect beginner's developer and great results with a wide variety of films, including one of my favorites, TXP 320.

Tray developing, although done completely in the dark, is not that hard to get used to and is the least expensive route to go.

[Jim Jones]

I'm with PViaplano. HC-110 concentrate can be diluted directly from the original stock. Even in a partly full bottle it lasts for many years, perhaps a decade or two. Kodak recommends making a stock solution for further dilution, which is more convenient in some ways. The stock solution probably won't last nearly as long. Ready-to-use stop bath and fixer last a long time. Tray development doesn't take much space. I do it one sheet at a time. With care several sheets can be simultaneously developed. However, to develop a few week's shooting by tray would be tedious.

[John Kasaian]

Check out the Unicolor Film development artice on the LF Home Page (above in the blue banner) Its a very inexpensive alternative to Jobos. IMHO there are quite a few chemicals that will stay potent over the long haul when stored in concentrated form. Or course there are collapsible bottles designed to evacuate air, and you can always use marbles or nitrogen gas to displace air as well (if thats any help---it sounds like quite a bother to me) What works best for your purposes can only be determined by you.
I've gotten away from HC-110 but D-76 in powder form is pretty shelf stable. IIRC, john nanian gets considerable mileage from Ansco 130, so you might consider trying these out.

[cyrus]

acufine, if you can get it, can be used forever - just replenish.
Simple tray or hangar processing is way worth it - just need a dark place.

[Bill_1856]

I'd go with the $2.50/sheet for letting someone else do it. Especially if you have to do 50 at one sitting, and frankly it sounds like you have better uses to make of your time. ALthough some people really love deveoping their own negatives, for most photographers it's just drudgery, boring, and time consuming.

[Brian Ellis]

I'd suggest using the BTZS tubes if you're concerned about the economics of chemicals. One sheet of film per tube, one ounce of stock D76 1-1 per sheet (i.e. two ounces of working solution). I commonly process six sheets at a time so I use six ounces of stock developer to process six sheets. Six ounces of developer costs pennies. It takes about 15 minutes per run to develop, stop, and fix six sheets so you could do 50 sheets in about 2 1/2 -3 hours. However, limitations on space to hang the 50 sheets for drying might be more limiting than the actual processing time.

Spending a couple dollars on developer, stop, and fix plus a few hours of your time is a whole lot better IMHO than paying a lab $125 to process 50 sheets for you, not to mention the greater control you have by doing it yourself. You can buy the BTZS tubes from The View Camera Store or you can make them yourself out of materials available at Home Depot. A tray with a water jacket to hold the tubes takes up very little space. I don't know what developers besides D76 to suggest, it's the only developer I've used for about 12 years except for a brief flirtation with pyro and Rodinal.