Super Symmar XL 110 (problems attaching to board)

[Jon Miller]

I just got a super symmar 110mm f5.6 XL lense and I'm having trouble figuring ou t how to attach it to a board used in a super speed graphic camera.

I detached the rear lense section I removed the ring I place the front lense + shutter into the board I put the ring back on from the back side I tighten the ring

At this point I have a couple of problems:

1. When I move the Fstop lever there is alot of friction between the board and t he plate that moves when you move the lever.

2. I can't get the lense tight enough to not move. I suspect that the fstop leve r would cease to function if I could get it tight enough to not move.

I took it apart again, and I noticed this little tiny flat head screw that is co ming out of the back of the shutter. This screw must keep the shutter from getti ng to close to the board (near the region of the fstop lever).

What am I doing wrong?

thanks

[Jon Miller]

(ONE MORE THING) I just read the outside of the box that the lense came in. It sais Super Symmar XL COP 1 SR 5,6/110-0002. When I bought the lense, I could have swarn that I was getting a copal 0 shutter with the lense, But it appears to be a copal 1 lense. I had an optar 135mm copal 0 lense in the board that I am trying to put the schneider lense in. I had to cut the hole larger. Perhaps it does'nt fit because its copal 1. Could this be? If so, is it possible to get a copal 1 board for the super speed graphic? thanks again.

[William Marderness]

Remove the screw. The screw is meant to recede into a small hole drilled into the board, so that the lens cannot rotate once mounted. Most people do not use the screw.

[Tom Keenan]

Stop and take a look at the Schneider web page http://www.schneideroptics.com/

In fact both the 110 and 150 XL are in Copal 1 shutters. Look also at the shutter information and it will tell you that you need a 41.8 mm hole for a Copal 1.

[David_892]

Easiest thing to do would be to get a pro repairer to fit the lens for you, however, if that is not suitable, or it's too big to fit the board as it would make it too flimsy and prone to breakage - fabricate one from metal. Though take care when blackening the rear of the board. As far as 2. don't worry about the screw it is un necessary, however if you fit the lens and find that the lever will not perate, it may be possble that there is something wrong with the shutter itself.

[Michael Klayman]

My suggestion would be to not remove the screw. It is there to fix the tightness problem you are having. Drill a small hole in the board for the screw, and once you fit the screw in the hole, the lens won't rotate. As for the friction with the f-stop plate, you should get that looked at. While it's there, ask the tech to drill the hole for the screw if possible. He would be able to drill it in the proper place.

[Glenn Kroeger]

Jon:

You can remove the screw to use the lens now. Save the screw, and later you can drill the board for the screw. All new lenses from the big 4 come with these screws.

[paul owen]

Lose the screw !! Heaven only knows why it is included, although some say that it is handy when using a lens on a wooden panel to prevent movement. As a sideline the 110xl is a corker !! Regards Paul