I've never used Acros, but for almost all my B&W films, including at one time, a couple boxes of Fuji Neopan in 4x5 (my sister used to live in Japan, and i had her ship me a coupel boxes once), I use HC-110 in my Jobo 2500 tank, and I have the same base as you do.
The stuff keeps forever, and i use the straight syrup. I also find a pre-soak in near manditory in my case, and you can get good tonality with HC-110 if you weaken it down a lot. The traditional Dil-B is waaaaaaay too strong I find. You'll have to experiment a bit to get things the way you like it, but can be done.
Also, I've used PMK Pyro to good effect in the Jobo 2500 drums. In fact, you can use just about any developer you want - the trick is to adjust times and solutions. I find, overall, to go with a weaker solution than you would with an inversion or hard rubger tank or tray development, and then adjust times accordingly.
The constant rotation/mechanical action of the drum on the base can have the effect of increasing your contrast, so I find instead of fighting that effect, count on it, and adjust your development accordingly. Otherwise with any developer, especailly something like HC-100, if you are not careful, you can make just about any sheet of film look like a litho print.
One last thought - with tray or hard rubber tanks, I would use replensiher and reuse chemistry. For the Jobo tanks, I have found out the hard way - at least for me - when it comes to developer, one shot is the way to go to keep good results and consistancy. I find I can re-use my fix for a period of time, but always one shot for th edevleoper, regardless of what developer I am using.