Granted Donald, but they were too cheap to pass up....seriously I'm fabricating some 8x10 slot tanks for the water bath, as I only process 2-3 sheets at a time. I also was recently given a 5x7 line that I'll be doing the same thing with. Using a replenishable developer should give me quite a bit of life out of it.
erie
Ok, I fabricated up a set of 4x5 tanks today, they'll hold about 4 hangers, I must say I'm convinced, using about 24oz of chemistry sure beats a gallon, or even a half gallon.
erie
Well, I just bought six of the 5x7 trays from US Plastic Corp (previously linked in one of these threads). With quantity discount in threes (because originally packaged in sets of three), I paid less than $4 per tray for brand new polypropylene trays that don't have the channel around the bottom that's cause uneven development in my negatives previously. I'll still have problems with the film ID notches imprinting when I let the stack of films stand between agitations (the area not covered by the next film sheet develops faster due to density-induced circulation, I think), so I may never be able to do the semi-stand process I'm used to from roll films with sheets in trays, but I might just convert to shorter agitation cycles and use tubes when I really need a longer standing cycle.
If a contact print at arm's length is too small to see, you need a bigger camera. :D
You can make really great functional floating lids from a block of foam core. I use these on stainless steel, hard rubber and plastic tanks. By the way if you get a set of old hard rubber tanks and want to sort them out as to which was which; the one with white stains is the fixer tank, the one that is smooth is the developer tank, while the stop bath tank will have fine raised bumps from reaction with the stop bath. This is true of hard rubber tanks.
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