Haven't been able to find anything in all my books about agitation of prints when selenium toning. would be interested in some input from the community.
Haven't been able to find anything in all my books about agitation of prints when selenium toning. would be interested in some input from the community.
I constantly agitate the prints while in the Selenium. I usually tone two at a time, back to back and flip them over during the toning.
I too agitate constantly, although I have no specific source for this technique, it just seemed like it would be a good idea and give even results.
- Randy
I agree. Agitate constantly. This was John Sexton's recommendation at a workshop I took.
Yes, you have to agitate continously so you don't get uneven toning. I always throw 5 minutes on the clock, even though most times I don't hit 5 minutes, it's just a reference. Remember to keep notes while experimenting with different times, temperatures, and dilutions!
I would also recommend not being cheap on solution. If there is just enough to cover the print, you will get turbulance toning marks on the edges. Having a little more toner in the tray helps keep it even.
As an aside, I stopped at my nearest photo shop today (Canada's largest chain (no, not Black's, the other one... I said photo shop, not picture frame vendor {Cdn humour} ) to pick up among other things, some selenium toner. Not seeing any on the shelf with the Sepia, asked the young man at the counter - Pause..."Oh, ah, film is almost, ah, dead, you should move to digital its much more fun!". He didn't have a clue what I was asking for.
Last edited by Paul Coppin; 3-Aug-2006 at 14:10.
I agitate constantly. I think I read it first in a Kodak Data Guide printed in the 50's. I also seem to remember reading it in Ansel Adams "The Print," but since I'm not in the vicinity of that book at this time, don't quote me on it. A friend who works at Blue Moon Camera in St John's, Oregon (A wonderful, film-only shop) suggested mixing it 1:10 and keeping it in for no longer for 2 minutes for archival properties. I've been doing it that way with good results. On Forte paper, I get deep browns in a couple minutes.
Sounds like you're an agitator to me Paul.Originally Posted by Paul Coppin
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