Most Stable/Solid 8X10???

[Cody Thomas]

Hi,

I am looking for an 8X10 to use outdoors and at long exposures (5-30 minutes). I don't have to have a "field camera" simply because they are lighter - I would rather have added weight and better stability. Considering all cameras, both used and new, wood and metal, could members please reply with recommendations for truly the best, most stable/durable 8X10. Please do not factor in expense, I would rather know what members feel is truly the best for this type of application.

Much appreciation,

Cody Thomas

[Jason Greenberg Motamedi]

A Calumet C-1?

[Frank Petronio]

Anything on top of a Gitzo 1504 Giant tripod or larger. Start with the support system. A second tripod can also be added for extreme work, plus wind shades and sandbags. That's what they do for time exposures with professional movie cameras.

After that, either one of the old school heavy Linhof monorails with "U" shaped, not "L" shaped standards, or a Sinar P with the heavy duty tripod block, or maybe a rigid metal flatbed like a Toyo 810M (the theory being the flatbed is more stable than a rail.) The Arca-Swiss Monolith with the full length rail clamp is plenty sturdy (the choice of rail being the factor).

Also consider the size of the lens and amount of bellows exposed to the environment. A really heavy lens is going to "settle" on the front standard, and a big shutter may vibrate. Or the whole assembly could "hum" with harmonic vibration if you get it set just so.

[Michael Kadillak]

The Linhof Color Karden is the most rigid 8x10 I have ever used. Unfortunately, it is no longer in production and can only be acquired in the used market. One of the most recent 8x10 cameras that fits the billing as intensely rigid is the Toyo 810M. I would agree with JG that the Calumet C-1 also fits the billing. If rigidity is the only criteria, I feel that metal is the better choice over wood. Just my $0.02.

Cheers!

[Bill_1856]

Weston (and others) made exposures which lasted for hours with rather rickety field-cameras such as the Kodak 2D and Deardorf. I think that it's the tripod and protection from the wind that actually counts.

[Ed K.]

If you don't require movements, and also if you can restrict yourself to a 240mm or 300mm lens, the Gowland Aerial 8x10 is totally rigid. On a sandbag atop a rock or other very stable thing, it can point straight up or at more conventional angles. Not expensive, not fancy, but possible to lock down for no movement at all. If you need a camera with more options, obviously it won't do. Works for me, I've done exposures from 5 minutes to 45 minutes with it, all tack sharp for things that didn't move in the scene. Personally, I use a beanbag with microbeads, which holds it still on just about anything. Atop a tripod, it is also good, and it weighs about as much as a DSLR - so not much pod needed. You might also consider building a one-off box camera which could have rise/fall at least, and the optimal focal length for your needs.

[bill_1041]

Another vote for Sinar P.

[Capocheny]

And a 3rd vote for a Sinar P or P2!

Cheers

[John Kasaian]

Ed Keck is right (of course theres no movements either!)

[Chris S]

I recently got the heavy Calumet C-1 black beast and stuck it on the big Ries tripod and head.Its not going anywhere.The winds out here in the Mojave desert can howl at times.Same in the Sierras.One minute its calm, the next you are holding onto your hat for dear life.I wanted something I wasn't going to have to baby.Its very easy and intuitive to use, at least for me, and the camera in near mint condition cost me 500.00 and that included 4 Fidelity holders, 4x5 back, and a 480mm Apo-Nikkor lens.I've seen em lately in so so condition go for a couple hundred less.

Chris