Black-and-white images via HP DesignJet 130

[Mike Lewis]

I am new to black-and-white photography and I don't know how to get a good print with my current setup, which is: Fuji Neopan Arcos 100 -> 4x5 camera -> Vuescan / Epson 4990 scanner -> Photoshop on Mac OS X 10.4 -> HP DesignJet 130. I'm satisfied with the DesignJet for color printing, but I need assistance in using it and Photoshop to achieve a pleasing image with black-and-white negative film. I've downloaded the B&W printer drivers from HP and they help, but I need more help. Any suggestions?

thanks,

Mike Lewis

[Carl Schofield]

You could contact Neil Snape for icc profiles tuned for B&W:
http://www.neilsnape.com/color/hpdj30130_icc_printing/index.html
or use ImagePrint with their gray profiles for the 130.

[John Berry ( Roadkill )]

Put paper in printer. Immerse printer in tub of Dektol 1:1 for two minutes with agitation. Sorry, I broke my brain and I can't get up.

[John Layton]

John - just add twelve ounces of a nice Ethiopian dark roast to the mix and all will be well!

[Ed Richards]

First, what paper are you using? I have good luck with the HP Satin. I use the profiles from:

https://hoon.banta-im.com/HP2000/qa/country/us/en/iccprofile_bw/index.html?pageseq=574825

I use the neutral one, seems to work for me. I run the BEST setting in the printer driver, and I calibrate the printer for Satin and Best. This works great on bigger prints - if I were doing 8x10, I might use max detail. Are you having specific problems?

[Mike Lewis]

Ed,
I am using the same paper and printer driver as you. I don't have a specific problem with the print that I can describe; it just doesn't look quite "right". Also, I haven't printed large yet, just trial 8x10s. Perhaps I could improve the image elsewhere in the processing chain. Are there Photoshop techniques specific for black-and-white images?

[Allan Connery]

Mike,

Thomas Pindelski has written in his blog about the 130's mid-sized brother, the Hewlett-Packard 90, including an entry about black and white profiles. (In general, Pindelski finds it an excellent product that's sometimes hobbled by obscure documentation).

I believe the profiles Pindelski mentions can be found here. Be sure to read the linked article on selecting and downloading the right profile.

[Ed Richards]

First, given the nature of the absorbant papers, the image does not have etched look of an Epson print. This makes small prints like 8x10 look less sharp. I would try calibrating for max as well as best, and try a few at max. Uses more ink and time, but might make a difference on the small prints.

Second, you are going to need to burn some ink and paper until you get a feel for how to use the levels and curves to get mid tones you need to make the 130 prints look right. I find levels to be useful to see where my blacks and whites are, even if I choose to not use the levels to change them. Sharpening is critical on the 130 (maybe on everything, but the 130 is what I know) - it enhances midtone contrast and makes the print pop. I use Qimage so I only have to sharpen once, but that does not matter as long as you are careful to sharpen each image for the size you print. I am not a color printer, so this is OTA speculation, but I bet that you need to sharpen B&W more than you are sharpening your color prints.

Viewing light is also important - if you have a diffuse light source, the prints will never look quite right.