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Thread: buying a new field camera

  1. #1
    grumpy & miserable Joseph O'Neil's Avatar
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    buying a new field camera

    Hi all;
    I have a 4x5 monorail, but most of the time, backpacking, I use my super speed graphic as my field camera. Quite nice - it has pretty much all the front movements you want , and a rotating back, but no back movments other than that. If I need more movement than my super graphic has, then I go get my monorail.

    I want to save my $$ and buy a new field camera someday (even if it is used - it'll be new to me .

    Question - what/which field cameras would you guys reccomend, given the very murky and nebulous parameters I have set about. As for lens use, I use 90mm to 300mm in my backpack. as for how much I am looking to spend, I suppose that will be a balance between what I need, what comes up available, and how long I want to save up for it, and how crazy I am at spending a minor fortune on new lensboards.

    So, if you wanted to replace a super speed graphic with something that has rotating backa nd other back movements, any ideas?
    thanks
    joe
    eta gosha maaba, aaniish gaa zhiwebiziyin ?

  2. #2
    Moderator Ralph Barker's Avatar
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    buying a new field camera

    You might take a look at the Toyo 45AX, AII, or the older A if you like metal field cams. They're essentially the same, feature-wise, except the AX has the manually rotated back versus the 360° rotation, lighter and less expensive. They come up used on eBay frequently.

    For wooden field cameras, look at the Shen Hao and the Tachihara.

  3. #3

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    buying a new field camera

    Joseph,

    Technikardan will give you a compact camera for backpacking and plenty of movements. You get monorail movements with a folding package. They are coming up with some frequency on Ebay and for a lot less than I paid for mine a year and half ago. The Technikardan 45S is the new version. The Technikardan45 is much the same camera, but without the zero detents.

    Bill
    Bill McMannis

  4. #4
    austin granger's Avatar
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    buying a new field camera

    Given your parameters, a Toyo 45AII comes to mind. Not the most exciting camera in the world if you're into looking AT your camera, and perhaps a little heavy compared to wood, but still a perfectly good tool. There are tons of used ones out there that can be had pretty cheaply.

  5. #5
    austin granger's Avatar
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    buying a new field camera

    Wow, in the time it took for me to type my response and post it, it was already redundant; you guys are fast!

    What Ralph said.

  6. #6

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    buying a new field camera

    Get a nice, used Linhof Technika (V or Master). Make sure the bellows is good. But franky I don't believe that you really need to replace that wonderful old Super Graphic with anything. It's light. It's rugged. It's reliable. It has everything but independent back movements, and personally I never use them anyhow.
    Wilhelm (Sarasota)

  7. #7

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    buying a new field camera

    If you are going to use a 300mm lens you will need a camera with more than 12" of bellows. Check tomake sure something you are about to buy will accommodate this lens. Also, with a 90nn make sure the camera you select will let you use the movements you desire. Some people will say yes but then ask what they are photographing and see how that fits your interests. Architecture will require more movements than landsape. If landscape is your interest then most of what you will use will be front tilt and/or back tilt and maybe a little front rise.

    Depending on your time frame and where you live the View Camera conference in Rockford, IL (just outside Chicago) would be a good place to look at a lot of equipment in one place. The dates are June 9-11. The trade show and Speed Dating a Camera session on Saturday evening are free. The program is on our web site www.viewcamera.com. There are also several articles in the Free Articles section that might be helpful to you.

    steve simmons

  8. #8
    grumpy & miserable Joseph O'Neil's Avatar
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    buying a new field camera

    Hi guys;
    thanks much so far. To Bill - no fear, I doubt I will ever get rid of the super graphic, but one of the reasons I am looking at a newer camera is my super grpahic is kinda beat up. I bought it used that way. By comparison, my crown graphic and my graphic view monorails are in litterally mint condition - both weere purchased (seperately) form estate sales. The monorail was used for 4 shots (I have the used box of film from the 1950s with the 4 sheet missing - it was still there) and frankly, if you get one as good as I did, you'll never look arond for anything else. I often think the main reason the graphic view monorials don't have a better rep is becasue - at least the majority of the ones I ahve seen - are pretty much beaten up from use.

    So that's my main problem here, while the bellows is tight on my super graphic, I keep replacing, repairing, tighting, etc. One reason I carry a couple small tools and a rool of electrical tape with me where ever I go.

    As for my 300mm lens, I coudl live without it, or as in the case of my 380mm (one of those old, monster Wollensaks) I would use my Crown - it seems to handle it better.

    - Steve - as far as your conference goes, there isn't a day I don't lust after the idea of attending. Convincing the wife that I need to spend the money on that before a new stov e- well, there's another matter. I still haven't figured out how to justify a new field camera, whiel I am at it. How do you guys all do it - or do you as the old saying goes, "easier to ask for forgiveness than permission"?


    I do need to get out more and see more, but while I know there are other 4x5 shooters locally - 4x5 enlargers disappear from the local camera stores, and View Camera magazine disappears off the shelf, LF shooters seem to be a solitary lot around here. I'll see what I can do about getting to the VC conference in Chigaco, and /or th eAPUG conference in Toronto too.
    joe
    eta gosha maaba, aaniish gaa zhiwebiziyin ?

  9. #9
    Eric Biggerstaff
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    buying a new field camera

    Joe,

    You have a lot of great responses here.

    But of course, here is my 2 cents worth:

    1) Decide what you love to photograph and get a camera to support your vision
    2) Decide what your favorite lenses are and get a camera to support your lens kit
    3) Decide what your budget is and make sure to live within this budget

    There are several really good cameras that come up on the auction sites, it is just a matter of time before you find what you need.

    The Toyo's are very popular and are usually a good buy. Also, I think a later model Zone VI would be a good bet for you, as well as a Tachihara. You could also look at getting an older 5X7 camera with a 4x5 reducing back which can often be found for a good price and then would give you an option of using 5X7 for contact printing or 4X5 for enlarging, all of your lenses should cover 5X7 from what I can tell. Given time, you should be able to find a great camera for your needs on the used market for well under $1,000 ( The Tachihara is way under this price new).

    The biggest challenge for anyone looking for a new camera is actually being able to see and touch one before buying! So, you are being smart in getting feedback from the very talented photographers on this forum ( excluding myself of course!).

    Thanks for the post and good luck!

    Eric
    Eric Biggerstaff

    www.ericbiggerstaff.com

  10. #10
    4x5 - no beard Patrik Roseen's Avatar
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    buying a new field camera

    I'm very happy with my Linhof Technika III wich has long bellows and back movements. I use the backmovements all the time when doing landscape, it's such an easy way to adjust the plane of focus in one and the same move. Even at times when you want to restore perspective...you only need to tilt the camera forward or backwards and fine tune the tilt of the front lens. The way the Technika is designed you can always insert the filmholder regardless of backward tilt - this is not the case with my Linhof Kardan Standard where the standard is in the way of inserting the filmholder unless in portrait position. Good luck.

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