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Thread: Tilt/shift/swing for portrait photography

  1. #1

    Tilt/shift/swing for portrait photography

    Most of my photography is portraiture. I've been using a Hasselblad for several years; a friend and I recently rented a Sinar 4 x 5 and used it in the studio for the weekend. Wonderful results: a completely different feel to the images; such a pleasure to print (B&W) in the darkroom. Here's my question: I understand the use of the tilt/shift/swing movements in architectural photography, but are they ever used in portrait photography? If so, how and why? Any suggestions, recommendations or referrals would be much appreciated.

  2. #2

    Join Date
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    Tilt/shift/swing for portrait photography

    I've seen this in fashion shots mostly, where part of the model's face is in focus (i.e. the eyes), but everything else is blurred out. Here are some examples I found on Google:

    http://www.onephoto.com/summerday2.JPG

    http://www.dennisonbertram.com/hackmaster/images/articlezuzanna_041009_0094.sized.jpg

    http://mishilo.image.pbase.com/u46/mcu/upload/29821851.MirkoUlbrichTiltandShift1focusdownIMG_9789.jpg

    These look mostly like tilt/swing, not so much shift though.

  3. #3

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    Tilt/shift/swing for portrait photography

    I almost always play with the focal plane with my portraiture. Mostly in 4x5 with my Technika and occassionaly with my 12x20.
    You can see my images here: http://www.soost.com

    My reason for doing so, as you will see, is to lead the eye directly to the area I want the viewer to focus. Or with the man in the sprinter position, to focus both on him as well as his motto in the background.
    Even with a normal shallow DOF the background is sometimes, I think too dominant. Especially with a wider lens like the 90mm on my 4x5.
    It does however take some practice in being effective and QUICK! Focusing the subject on the ground glass and then making sure the subject doesn't move before stopping down, setting the shutter, pulling the dark slide and exposing. REAL FUN WITH THE 12x20! :0)

    Regards
    Teddan

  4. #4

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    Tilt/shift/swing for portrait photography

    Are you thinking of buying a camera, and wondering what features you should look for? Avoid cameras without tilt and swing both front and back. Don't worry about shift, and whatever rise/fall there is will be enough, esp. in combo with tilt (tilt front and back for indirect rise/fall).

    Do you work exclusively in the studio? If so, you can ignore the vast majority of camera-selection discussions on this forum, which always consider weight/bulk/set-up issues that only come into play in the field. Should you choose to, you can obtain a perfectly serviceable camera for very little cash on the used market, esp. compared to Hasselblad.

    Compared to 120, there are giant issues of depth of field when shooting head shots. Don't sell the Hasselblad just yet...

  5. #5
    Jon Shiu's Avatar
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    Tilt/shift/swing for portrait photography

    Sometimes portraits are taken at an angle instead of straight on. Also sometimes from above or below. And of course there is environmental portraiture. The camera movements would give you more control in these cases.
    my black and white photos of the Mendocino Coast: jonshiu.zenfolio.com

  6. #6
    Whatever David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Tilt/shift/swing for portrait photography

    I often use rise or fall for portraits (usually front fall or rear rise--I like a high camera position but with the top of the head at the top of the frame).

    Swings and tilts require the ability to work quickly, so the subject doesn't become fatigued and move out of the plane of focus. I occasionally use a little swing or tilt when I'm shooting with the Sinar P, because the asymmetric tilts and swings are very quick to use, and don't usually require much in the way of refocusing. I tend not to use swings or tilts for portraits as much with my other LF cameras. If weight is not a concern, you can find a Sinar P relatively inexpensively these days.

  7. #7

    Tilt/shift/swing for portrait photography

    I use front tilt on 4x5 with portraits. I will tilt either forward or back on the front standard depending on subject matter and the background. The amazing thing is that high school seniors, I love to photograph them because they love something different and are more willing to take risks, love these images. Usually I'm shooting B&W for these and on 120 film. I may be using a Linhof Technika, Toyo G, or Wisner TF. Most subjects like the Wisner TF because it is wood and brass and looks "antique". This gives me a big advantage over the other 4x5's because of the interest factor. They are always willing to hold still, up to 1/2 second exposures on 100 asa film, windowlight. Of course I'm shooting color film, Hasselblad, or digital, Canon, on them too, but many have ordered 16x20 B&W prints with this special feature. Many of my high school senior orders exceed $700 so the parents of these kids are willing to pay for something unique.

    Once they've seen a few of my fine art prints they are ready and willing to spend money to get something they can't get from the school contract photographer. The competition is high and I can make a living doing this to support my fine art interests. North window light and a tilt of the lens has been a very good product as well as useful in aspects of my fine art work.

    As far as shooting technique: I usually tilt the lens prior to posing the subject if I know what I'm looking for. Either forward or back and I usually max out the tilt on a 210mm lens on 120 film. By max out I mean tilt 'till the lens coverage begins to show. This actually can be useful if used right. A slight fade to dark. I usually shoot wide open, 5.6 on my lens, or f/8.
    The focusing is done with lens already tilted and the subject is warned to hold very still. I focus on the eye lashes. They are tack sharp and the customers are amazed at the sharp eyes and out of focus areas. I usually explain to them ahead of time what I am doing and why I am using such and "old looking" camera and that makes them feel more compeled to hold still. This really works well for me and I,ve done it so many times that it is SOP.

  8. #8

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    Tilt/shift/swing for portrait photography

    Using vertical and horizontal lens shifts for portraits can be really nice, very subtle but effective. A lot of photographers use medium and small format camera systems with shift lenses to achieve that same effect. If you get a 4x5 again you should try it. Use Polaroids and make adjustments and line them up to see the differences. Good luck.

  9. #9

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    Tilt/shift/swing for portrait photography

    Typically, shooting LF wide open gives you such shallow DOF that you don't need to shorten it any more. Where tilts and swings to lose focus would be advantegous would be if you had a lit shot and wanted to shoot at f/16 or smaller, yet still have focus fall off in a short space. Studio strobes of course.

    For near full length portraits, lots of photographers get the upper torso and head in focus, then let the waist and legs go out with a tilt.

  10. #10

    Tilt/shift/swing for portrait photography

    Another camera that offers a bit more in the way of tilting but still medium format is the Rollei SL 66. One can tilt the lens as with a view camera, but retain the ease and speed of operation. If strobes are wanted the 150 lens with a leaf shutter is readily available.

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