Henry: I have the Beseler (sp) V series enlarger with an 8X10 head. I orginally used the Beseler APO HD lens which came with it, a 240mm, which I understand is a lower-end Rodenstock product. That lens (VERY inexpensive used) made fine 16X20 prints and it is small enough I can use the swing arm VC filter holder. I bought the 210 Nikkor not realizing how big it was and I was thinking it would be my 5X7 lens. I tried it one day with 8X10 and it worked very well and that is the one I use now. My only reason for not going larger than 16X20 is that my sink (Patrick Alt's old sink, actually, part of a long story...) can't handle the trays and I haven't gotten around to building a larger one. At 16X20 both lenses are sharp to the edges. The Nikkor requires using Ilford sheets on top of the diffuser panel for filtering, which is inconvenient. (I am working on an extender for the filter drawer which will solve this.) The pluses are that it requires less column height and, best of all, you don't need to raise the bellows between the lens stage and the top unit as much, which makes everything easier to keep in alignment. I know people look down on the APO HD lens but, again, it has worked well for me and that is an option. Depending on lens board size you may have to trim the mounting flange to get it to fit with the Nikkor.
Something to think about, and maybe slightly changing the subject, I never got prints REALLY sharp at the edges until I bit the bullet and got the Versalab alignment tool. After spending tedious hours with the t-square trying to align my enlarger I tried that tool and found out how precise the factory-recommended procedure for aligning the enlarger was not. It made a huge difference, I check things and make minor tweaks before printing sessions
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