Super Graphic Rigidity and Focusing Screen?

[Yu Lu]

Hi,
I am new to the LF and just got myself a Super Graphic with the 135mm/4.5 Optar. After playing around with it for a while, I have a few questions for which I hope may get suggestions from the always helpful LF community.

1. The "chrome lip" to control the front swing/slide (see http://www.cameraquest.com/supergrp.htm) on my Super Graphic appears not very tight. I feel I can still swing the lens standard to left or right even without pressing that thing. Is this normal? Did I force the lens standard too much?

2. In addition, the lens standard can be moved along the rails slowly if I use some force. Is this normal for the Super Graphic? Or is that also caused by the potential problem of that "LIP" as I indicated in question 1?

3. As a modern SLR user, I have been spoiled by the bright image usually showing up in viewfinders. Thus I am amazed at the dim image (hard to see, except my own reflection onto the glass) the focusing screen can provide. Seems that the focusing hood doesn't help a lot. Do I need a focusing cloth? Or changing the ground glass/installing the fresenl lens may be more helpful?

Since I am totally new, maybe my questions are not very good ones. However, I am still waiting for you guys to give me some instructions and I really appreciate your kind help!

Best regards, Yu.

[Victor Samou Wong]

I don't know if this is your problem but you might want to consider if your.....

-shutter is open
-lens aperture is at maximum, if the aperture is at minimum, then previewing the scene can be very dim indeed.
-viewfinder images are slightly dimmer than that of SLRs, but not that much dimmer, and of course everything should be appearing upside down.

Cheers

[Bill_1856]

1 & 2) My Super is the same way. When everything is supposed to be locked down, it can still be forced (unlike my Crown). I'd say, don't worry about it, just stop forcing it.
3) Now you know why people use focusing cloths (which are a PITA). Get one and use it.
4) Welcome to the asylum. Have fun.

[BrianShaw]

RE:

1. The 'chrome lip' on my Super Graphic locks very tightly into a recess when in the center (no swing, no slide) position. In fact, it takes a noticable amount of pressure to 'unlock' it when using a swing or slide. When returning it to the neutral/locked position, it "clicks" into place -- that's how tight the spring action is.

2. Are you refering to the standard being able to be forced down the rails after locking it down with the large locking lever in the center of the lens standard, or after locking the small locking lever on the side of the rail? My Super front standard locks quite firmly after the lens standard is pulled down the slide to the infinity stop and the large (center) locking lever is pushed to the side. I think this is how it is supposed to be. Then the lens standard then can be moved using the knurled knobs to adjust focus without the lens standard wobbling or sliding.

The small silver locking lever on the side of the rail that can be used to keep focus from changing tends to hold it in place, but can be easily forced into moving.

3. As mentioned earlier... focus with the lens wide open and enjoy your time under the focusing cloth!

[Robert Ley]

It sounds like your lens standard may be too loose. If you run the bellows out so that you can get to the bottom of the standard, there is a small slotted screw with a lock nut. Loosen the lock nut and tighten the standard, then carefully tighten the locknut without moving the orientation of the screw. It sounds more difficult than it is, and should solve your problem. With some trial and error you should be able to get it where the standard will stay where you want it to. Good Luck and start burning some film!

[Yu Lu]

Oh, thanks for all the replies. I followed Robert's advice and tightened my lens standard a bit more. It's not perfect, but much better than it was before. I have still two further questions and would like to listen to your opinions.

1. As to the focusing hood/focusing cloth issue, is it possible to remove the fabric hood supplied with this Super Graphic and install another focusing hood instead? Or at least how to get rid of it easily without destroying it? It may be put on at a later stage anyways.

2. I am not sure whether I need to change the Ground Glass. It looks dirty, with finger prints and scratches, probably small dusts as well. Is a brand new GG gonna improve the brightness of the image, too? Like the Satin Snow one as somebody suggested in some other post. Do I need to install a Fresnel Lens to help improve the brightness/eveness?

Thank you so muchfor your attention and help.

[Don Wallace]

If you are using the camera as a field camera, and not a hand-held press camera, then use a dark cloth rather than the focusing hood. Take the hood right off. Push the tab to release the hood and then pull the whole frame out. It pops out easily. In the field, fold it back up again so it wont get damaged while not on the camera. If your screen is not bright, or it is not in good shape and cannot be cleaned, then just get another that IS bright. Also, make sure you get a really good dark cloth. It should be should be large and capable of blocking out ALL light. There was a terrific article in View Camera a while back about dark cloths and it is well worth reading.

I used a Super Graphic as my main camera for some time so if you have more questions, feel free to email me.

[BrianShaw]

The Super Graphic originally came with a fresnel between the GG and the lens. If your fresnel is missing, you might want to look into replacing it. I don't know where you'd get one however... maybe Midwest Camera or Fred Lustig (Reno NV)???

Like Don said... use a dark cloth when using the camera as a field camera. There really isn't an effective way to avoid it. Actually, any old piece of dark cloth will work in a pinch but one with weights or velcro is worth considering in windy environments. As long as it blocks out enough light to focus properly and doesn't keep sliding off... which is REALLY annoying!