If you order them from Sinarbron, they oddly differ substantially in price. I ordered two and one was around $19, and the other was around $42, though they seem like they can't be too different in manufacture. Maybe you'll be lucky and only need a $19 level.
Is not the taking apart, it is the putting back together Dan..... :-)
all movements (except swing & base tilt) on the sinar P rides on straight or curved nylon-rods that separate metal surfaces. Old lube makes the mechanism sticky. All the nylon rods are simply secured in place by the two thin metal plates that covers the two ends of the respective track. Thus - only a few small screws is to be removed before you can slide out the nylon rods for geared-tilt & for focus. For rise/fall, the rods are accessable with Q-tips from opening when standard is racked all to the top. Cleaning rods & tracks with Q-tips & alcohol to all bearing surfaces is non-sticky & free of old grease. The mechanism to stay away from if You are not skilled, is the swing mechanism. This employ steel-gears and main gear can be lubed from underside when in extreme swing position. The gear-box is accessible once main cover on top of the standard bearer is removed. The plunger for zero-position of swing is in the way, but the sheet metal is thin enough that you can slide it under & swing cover away to expose interior of gear box. Focussing tracks may be worn, but is inexpensive as parts & easily replaced (two screws). There is brass replacement tracks available for rise/fall if the nylon tracks get worn to fast: You may consider that if you intend to make a ULF back for it. There is little to go wrong: the P is a tool made of strong components & designed to be easy to service despite the all-geared & complex movements it can handle.
Thanks Tek....where do you get the brass tracks? The front rise is worn and missing a few teeth. The big problem was the back swing. There was a little brass plate about a cm in lenght and 4 mm in width that was stuck in between the gears and would not allow the standard to rotate to the left. I have taken everything apart and for the life of me I have no idea where that little brass plate goes. Everything else is pretty straigh forward, just a million of little screws to keep track of, but that plate is dirving me crazy. It has two little screw in holes, so it must go somewhere......could it be the tilt break?
I wish Sinar had diagrams.....
Hard to say offhand without seeing it or taking apart my own rear standard, but on the left side of the rear standard (viewed from the back as it would be mounted on the camera) there should be a small black knob attached to a simple screw. This is the swing brake, so that you can lock the swing setting while focusing or changing the rear tilt (if you're using a wide lens, the "self-arresting" movements might not be so self-arresting against the force of the bellows). The screw presses against a small metal plate that compresses the flat side of the rubber ring that holds down the gear track for the swing mechanism. Your little brass plate might be that plate. The tilt mechanism does not have a brake like this.
Also, you can control the tension in the swing mechanism by adjusting the screws on the plate that presses down on the rubber ring. Don't overtighten, or the swing mechanism won't move, but don't make it too loose or it will be hard to control.
While looking at my camera, I also noticed that if you shift the rear standard all the way to the left and try to tilt all the way back (something I don't see myself doing for any actual photograph), you'll see why the tilt knob pulls out.
How does one calibrate the new spirit levels?
The levels are held in place by two screws each. To get to the screws you may need to remove a cover panel for one or two of the levels.
Zero the camera settings and level it using another level (I like to use the groundglass and front filter ring of a lens as references with a 90-degree level for the fore/aft levels), loosen the screws slightly (usually you'll want to leave one a little more snug than the other), adjust the level until it reads correctly, and tighten carefully (and then do it again when in frustration you've moved the level as you were tightening).
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks