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Thread: Selfconfusion by a future LF photographer

  1. #21

    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    2,955

    Selfconfusion by a future LF photographer

    Matus, I do B&W and develop by hand-rolling using a Jobo 3010. It is easy to load, results are great, and costs $0.90 per exposure including film and chemicals. You can buy a Jobo for $150 used. You can get lots of practice cheaply using B&W.

  2. #22

    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Germany, Aalen
    Posts
    849

    Selfconfusion by a future LF photographer

    .. Hiro ..

    Concerning the roll film holders holder for Tachihara, I have heard that event the Hrsemann roll film back would fit (the spring on the Tachihara back should allow so), but this is only what I have read. I personally will postpone the roll film back.

    I do not know where are you located, Hiro, but the Tatras (both Low and High) are beautifull (I have done a few 3-4 days long trips in the Low Tatras and a few 1 day trips in the High Tatras). Actually if everything goes right that I do plan to organize with a few friends a hike in Tatras in the summer so let me know wheter you would be interrested, though I can not promise anything yet.

    .. John ..

    At least somewhere a cheap solution works well :-)

    .. Ron ..

    I will think of it. It sounds interesting. What kind of film do you shoot?
    Matus

  3. #23

    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Ann Arbor, MI USA
    Posts
    219

    Selfconfusion by a future LF photographer

    Matus,

    I do plan to organize with a few friends a hike in Tatras in the summer

    I live in the U.S. An opportunity to join up with local experts is hard to pass up. Thanks for the offer. I would be very interested although I can't promise anything, either as I have an eye on Italy next spring. But please give me updates if it's not a trouble (e-mail: hmori[at]att[dot]net).

  4. #24

    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    2,955

    Selfconfusion by a future LF photographer

    Matus, I have tried T-max 100, Fuji Acros 100, Ilford FP4+, Ilford Ortho. I like all. But generally I use FP4+ when there is sufficient light, and Acros at other times because it does not need any reciprocity correction at times less than two minutes. Check out Paul Butzi's excellent website. He has lots of very useful film and processing information posted. (use Google)

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