photographic transfer onto Plate glass

[Jamie_6028]

I am trying to get started with photographic transfer onto plate glass. I have researched several methods, however processes like cyanotype use chemicals that are toxic when exposed to fire. I will be fusing the glass in a kiln after the transfer and need to be positive that it will be safe. Any suggestions of alternative methods would be greatly appreciated. I would be happy to provide more infomation on the specifics of the project I am working on if it would help to clarify. Thanks!

[Donald Qualls]

Cyanotype wouldn't work anyway -- the image pigment, Prussian Blue, will break down at temperatures FAR below those of fusing glass.

You need something that will put either a heat-fast pigment or a colloidal metal image onto the glass surface with a binder that will either survive the process or burn away cleanly without disturbing the image too much, which pretty much lets out the gelatin liquid emulsion and collodion processes, as well as common carbon transfer and any dye process.

The one gelatin process that might work is something akin to a carbon pigment transfer -- if heated very slowly, the gelatin should char in place and produce a carbon black image on the glass surface, which could be fixed in place under an other layer of fused glass; the transparency of pigmented gelatin, where density is porportional to coating thickness, however, would likely be lost in the charring. Also, you'd have to apply the second glass after charring, or gas released from the coking gelatin would cause major trouble.

There are processes that will put a photographic image into a ceramic glaze; this might work with glass (adhesion is likely to be the main problem), and is pretty certain to take the heat (ceramic is routinely fired at temperatures that will slump, if not completely melt most glasses). Alternately, it might be possible to use a screen process (like silk screen, more or less) to apply an image in color frit or mineral dust that would remain in place when the glass fuses; this would most likely have to be half-toned or otherwise rasterized to produce a reasonable appearance of contrast.

It might also be possible to create a half-toned image on copper foil using printed circuit etching methods, and then apply the foil to the glass with something like sodium silicate; the result should fuse into the glass (copper melts at a temperature higher than most glasses).

Good luck!