I have been using HC110 Dilution B and D76 1:1 for 8x10 and 35mm respectively for many years.
I want to use one developer for both. I've considered HC110 but the processing times have gotten too short for the JOBO.
Anyone have any suggestions for a starting point? I shoot Tri-X exclusively in both formats.
Thanks,
Steve
Steve Williams
Scooter in the Sticks
Nothin' wrong with D-76!
"I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White
If you prefer diluting liquid chemicals instead of mixing powder, Nacco 76 will spoil you
"I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White
Rodinal 1 + 50 for both if you do not mind having grainy 35 mm films. The results in 35 mm with Tri-x are similar of those obtainable with D 76 1+1.
Try HC110 at other dilutions: 1:15, 1:31 or 1:62. I only use 1:7 for N+
Ditto on watering down HC-110 and extending times. I use half strength Dilution B, and double the time in my Jobo, for Tri-x in 4x5. Your times and milage will vary, but you can mix HC-100 to just about any dilution you want to.
joe
eta gosha maaba, aaniish gaa zhiwebiziyin ?
Dilute HC110 to extend the times. I made up 1:45 from stock. I use it for 35mm at EI 200, 4.5 min at 68. Use about 6 for EI400. I`m down to my last 100 ft roll of tri x.
I am getting away from Kodak anything as they will soon be exiting the film market. That means I have been home mixing D76 for about $3 a gallon. I like it better than HC110 and see no difference in my home brew and the package stuff.
The development times are longer than HC110. If you want, you may dilute 1:1 or 1: .5 to extend. The last is 1 part stock to 1/2 part water, not a full 1:1 dilution.
Do a water presoak with the Jobo to get longer times.
Sorry I can`t help with Jobo times, as I have gone back to a 4x5 Nikor tank or stainless tanks and hangars for 4x5, and my 45 year old Nikor tanks for 35mm. I find the set up easier and faster and there are no quality differences I can see. Arkay just made one new tank and a hanger rack for me. The rack holds 8 hangars and there is no possibility of scratching as they fit tight as a unit. The three tanks sit in a stainless water jacket. I would not recommend buying new as the one tank and hangar rack cost $200. The rest came free from a neighbor along with a similar set up with 5x7 tanks and a hangar rack for 20 4x5 hangars.
The Jobo is semi retired and only used for C41 4x5 now with the expert drum and very ocassionally 35mm C41.
Are you doing the 35mm with inversion tanks?
if so, i'm betting that using a weaker dilution for the 8x10 in the jobo for the 8x10 will actually give you results that are more consistent with your 35 negs.
with iversion tanks, the intermittent development gives you a bit of a compensating scale, even with a strong dilution. in the jobo, you have continuous development, which is why your times are shorter, and which will also tend to give you a straighter scale. a weaker dilution will lengthen the time and also soften the scale a bit, to more closely match what you see in the 35mm.
There are many other developers which will give you excellent results. I prefer pyro for most of my work but hc110 at different dilutions works too. I'm not a fan of Rodinal but that's just my opinion. Naaco, ect are good too. The different pyro's have been around a long long time and give excellent results. You may want to give them a try. More effort you say? What are your images worth?
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