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Thread: Metering with filters

  1. #11

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    Re: Metering with filters

    Quote Originally Posted by Sweep View Post
    ...or could I just use my spot meter directly onto the ground glass?
    I tried it... but I found it complicated. Basicly you have to use the same exposure than with the SLR adding the bellows extension compensation. The light transmission of a LF Plasmat is very close the one of a prime lens, say a Nikon 50mm f/1.8.

    The difference is that in 35mm or MF you can bracket exposure if the shot deserves it, while a 8x10 slide is about jewelry, the photographer becomes a goldsmith, or a diamond cutter. Material cannot be wasted.

    On any doubt attach the DSLR to the back of the camera (without the lens, projecting the LF image on the sensor) until you get used to nail exposures.

  2. #12
    Jac@stafford.net's Avatar
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    Re: Metering with filters

    Quote Originally Posted by Sweep View Post
    ...or could I just use my spot meter directly onto the ground glass?
    Some testing is necessary but a beginning is to measure a grey card (or blanket on a clothesline for LF ) Then take a reading off the card/sheet on the ground glass. You will get a factor value.

  3. #13

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    Re: Metering with filters

    "I suppose I should then ignore this number and adjust by 1.5stops for the whole scene to take into account the Coral 6. Right?
    If, however, I was also want to use a polariser (let's say that is also 1.5stop), then do I adjust by a total of 1.5 (Coral)+1.5(Polz)=3 stops?"

    Yes, that's the general idea.

    I couldnít agree more with Bobís comment, if you have a grasp of basic metering, shooting transparency isnít really any more difficult than other film, it just has a more limited exposure latitude. In my experience the filter factors stated by manufactures are usually very accurate.

    I also use a Sekonic L-508 light meter. Experience and testing has taught me that if using a spot read from an 18% grey card or mid-tone area, I give 1 stop more exposure than indicated by the meter. In practice this means I set the meter for Provia at 50 EI and Velvia at 25 EI, assuming Iím looking at mid tone readings. Thatís my meter, YMMV.

    If I think a particular scene is likely to be beyond the latitude of the film and a ND grad is usable, I determine the range using spot meter readings a select a grad according. Iím usually still using a mid-tone (or equivalent) reading of the unfiltered part of the image for the base exposure. If you to use an inverted grad on the lower part of the image you would need to add that filter factor to the overall exposure.

    One thing you might want to consider is using a colour correction filter such as the 81 series, the colour filters you describe are quite extreme. An 81B, or 812 if you want a touch more red, is a good starting point and would give a much more subtle result. Of course peoples tastes vary.

    All the best

  4. #14

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    Re: Metering with filters

    Quote Originally Posted by Sweep View Post
    Let me add that when measuring speed on the signal I find more consistent taking the interval at the mid of the open/close movement. A perfect calculation (for the high speeds) would depend on the linearlity of the sensor, the method shown in the ebay offer is also good.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Also I'd add that Bob's and Mark advices are pretty qualified (of course), you may find inspiration in Mark's portfolio.

    Sadly, not all beauty in a slide can be shown in a monitor.

  5. #15

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    Re: Metering with filters

    Thanks guys. As always your guidance is very much appreciated although guidance is no substitute for me actually developing experience.
    I think I just needed a bit of 'hand holding' to build confidence as the few 10x8 slides I have shot so far, bar one shot almost directly into the sun, have been pretty good although only one has been far enough away to need spot metering.
    I went up to the English Lake District last weekend, however, and found myself shying away from shooting with a coloured graduated filters as there was too many things to consider racing through my head; it doesn't help either when you crack open the 10x8 as it always seems to attract a crowd. I ended up just covering the lens completely with the solid (Coral) coloured part.
    I have a couple of sheets of Provia to process from that weekend and I know I used the same metering technique as my FP4, though just being super conscious of the reduced latitude, so it will be interesting how they came out.

  6. #16

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    Re: Metering with filters

    Please posts your shots, it would be great to see the results, I'm shooting Velvia 4x5 and BW 8x10, and I'd like to engage with Velvia 8x10, viewing your slides can be encouraging.

  7. #17

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    Re: Metering with filters

    Sweep hello,

    Just one additional thought regarding not being able to see the transition area of the grad.

    Using grads well (i.e. so their use is not noticeable) does require some experience. I’m surprised that your having trouble seeing the transition on the GG but if your GG is pretty dim to start with then that might account for it. You could try placing a piece a clear mylar sheet cut to the filter size with a black marker line around the transition area against the filter as you’re adjusting it to help visualise the placement.

    As a general guide, the smaller the front element of the lens, the harder transition you are likely to need. I carry .6 and .9 Lee Seven5 hard and medium ND grads when using my lighter lens set, all of which have fairly small front elements. Using bigger lenses e.g. Nikkor 90mm f4.5 or 150mm SW I run a Lee 100m set .6 and .9 hard, medium and soft. The medium grads I find most useful.

    All the best with your work. Let us know how you go.

  8. #18
    Cordless Bungee Jumper Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Re: Metering with filters

    I always metered filters through the lens until recently at a workshop. I was told that the light meters did not see the spectrum the way the film does, so I tested a R25 that has a three stop correction and found that the meter only showed a 1.5 stop correction. Now I meter without the filter and put the correction in myself.
    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  9. #19

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    Re: Metering with filters

    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius Glass View Post
    I always metered filters through the lens until recently at a workshop. I was told that the light meters did not see the spectrum the way the film does, so I tested a R25 that has a three stop correction and found that the meter only showed a 1.5 stop correction. Now I meter without the filter and put the correction in myself.
    It used to be called hysteresis failure. Probably still is, it was quite a problem with CDS cells.

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