Pyro and Hypam fix?

[Tim V]

Hi all,

I know this is an often asked question with regards to pyro developers, but after sorting through conflicting or confusing information for a few hours here and over the net, I thought I'd simply ask in my own words and see what the community says...

I'm using PMK developer but have only a small amount of TF4 fix left. It costs a fortune to buy TF4 here as it has to be imported (I'm in New Zealand) but Ilford Hypam is easily obtained for cheap.

I see that Hypam has a PH level of 5.5 (as per Ilford's spec sheets) when mixed 1+4 or 1+9, which makes is slightly acidic.

So my questions is: Can I use Ilford Hypam mixed 1+4 with negatives developed in PMK developer? Photographer's Formulary state it "might" reduce image stain, but from the internet searches I've conducted many people say they see no evidence of this?

I'm using Ilford FP4+ and shooting 8x10" sheets.

Your help is much appreciated!

Thanks,

Tim

[Steve Sherman]

I've used both PMK and currently PyroCat HD with Ilford Hypam for over 10 years and see no drop off in stain. The whole Alkaline fixer and Pyro stain is much more about textbook reasoning and marketing then any real world wisdom. I speak from 1000's of sheets of film processed in Pyro developers using Hypam fixer and a very weak stop bath

Hi all,

I know this is an often asked question with regards to pyro developers, but after sorting through conflicting or confusing information for a few hours here and over the net, I thought I'd simply ask in my own words and see what the community says...

I'm using PMK developer but have only a small amount of TF4 fix left. It costs a fortune to buy TF4 here as it has to be imported (I'm in New Zealand) but Ilford Hypam is easily obtained for cheap.

I see that Hypam has a PH level of 5.5 (as per Ilford's spec sheets) when mixed 1+4 or 1+9, which makes is slightly acidic.

So my questions is: Can I use Ilford Hypam mixed 1+4 with negatives developed in PMK developer? Photographer's Formulary state it "might" reduce image stain, but from the internet searches I've conducted many people say they see no evidence of this?

I'm using Ilford FP4+ and shooting 8x10" sheets.

Your help is much appreciated!

Thanks,

Tim

[Andrew O'Neill]

I've used Pyrocat and Hypam rapid fix since 2002. Comparing negatives fixed in TF4, to Hypam negatives, they look identical as far as stain is concerned. TF4 (and newer TF5) are just too expensive to bring up here.

[Andrew O'Neill]

I should also add that I used PMK, and Rollo Pyro before I switched to Pyrocat-HD, with no effect on stain... I occasionally use Obsidian Aqua, too. So the moral of the story is, it's all good.

[angusparker]

I’ve found my stain from Pyrocat HD did get washed out by RapidFix but TF4 works a charm.... might be the Jobo processing interacting .....


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[Alan9940]

I've asked a very similar question, in the past, directly to Sandy King; the father of Pyrocat-HD. According to him, any fixer can be used with no ill affect. PMK could be different in this regard.

[Tim V]

Thanks all!!! I’ll give Hypam a go.

Now to ascertain a agitation scheme for single sheets that I’m happy with...

[koraks]

Pyro stain is ridiculously hard to remove by any means. In my experience, no fixer is up to the job. I just use rapid fix.

[Kirk Gittings]

Pyro stain is ridiculously hard to remove by any means. In my experience, no fixer is up to the job. I just use rapid fix.

Ditto

[Tim V]

Used the Hypam today. Not sure yet, but on quick inspection it seems that the base might not have as much stain with the Hypam as with the TF4. They might dry down to match though, so until then I'll reserve judgement...