There is also an article on the subject at
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/macro.html
There is also an article on the subject at
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/macro.html
Jac, might you be thinking of color negative film? There used to be, may still be, labs that wouldn't print obviously bad negatives and that charged for developing and prints made.Originally Posted by Jac@stafford.net
Indeed there is. And there's a reason it isn't in "the list."
2 suggestions
First get 2 books: The Manual of Close-Up Photography by Lester Lefkowitz, and Close-up Photography, the Kodak Workshop Series. Both available on eBay now for under $10.00 each. both have different strengths and will answer all your questions.
Second... if you are using a 4x5 view camera, invest in a Horseman 6x9 exposure computer with its 4x5 adapter or a Horseman Exposure Meter 45. Think they average around $200.00 each. You will own a "behind the lens" meter. If you shoot color, the meter will pay for itself very quickly. If you shoot B&W, the meter will pay for itself in little time. I've owned and used these over the years. When you get the meter, test it out. Most of them will read ZONE V, but I have used ones that read up or down by a full ZONE. Also consider a (Gossen) Sinar SIX. This meter in effect is a behind the lens spot meter. Lot more challenging to use over the Horseman though. Own and use both with a Nikon Multiphot and each has its strengths over the other. Non OEM batteries for both meters still available if you look around.
good luck
So at one time I worked for a big studio, one that regularly shot national campaigns. Back in the 90s, they used film, having their own Kodak Q-Lab. They used Sinar P2s and Arca Ms for product photography, completely with film plane meters......Despite all of this, they used a ton of Polaroids for proofing.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
It isn’t quite that easy. If you are going to use a meter to measure through the gg you first need to make sure that your camera has a Fresnel lens to ensure even light distribution. That means a proper Fresnel for a camera, not a Fresnel magnifier from Staples!
Then you need to measure the light loss from the absorption of the gg. And then use that as a filter factor on your meter. Otherwise you will always have an incorrect exposure!
Both meters measure light coming from the lens in front of the GG.
Back in the 1970s, I was a student doing Photomicrography and Photomacrography with an 8x10. Tried many times to measure the light coming through the GG with a hand meter... very inconsistent results as I remember, wasted a lot of film.
No problem measuring through the gg if you figure the absorption.
1 set up a gray card.
2 meter the gray card directly.
3 meter the gray card through the gg.
4 note the difference in the two readings. That is your light absorption from the gg.
5 enter that difference as a filter factor on your meter.
If you are shooting at macro distances then you also need to also add the bellows factor to the reading.
Once you have found the absorption factor it will not change, unless you replace the gg and/or the Fresnel.
So what I'm hearing is that macro work is not especially easy in LF, especially in the field.
Begging the simple question, what types of photography/subjects/assignments is LF best suited?
It is what you want to use it for.
Have you seen that picture of Jackie Robinson stealing home against the Yankees? That was hand held LF.
How about Ty Cobb sliding into third? That was hand held LF.
How about John Sexton landscapes? They are LF.
And don’t forget all those crime shots by Weegee, also hand held LF.
Once you learn and master your camera it can be used for almost anything. But not, necessarily, as easily or conveniently as smaller formats.
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