Often the uncorrected blue error in chrome films can be appealing. And you can quickly evaluate it on a lightbox. But the blue error with Ektar is a different story. Very few people like it - actually nobody I'm aware of.
Often the uncorrected blue error in chrome films can be appealing. And you can quickly evaluate it on a lightbox. But the blue error with Ektar is a different story. Very few people like it - actually nobody I'm aware of.
For sunrise / sunsets I found it pretty fantastic. Everywhere else, I agree, now that I realize that's what's going on, it's not often ideal. I'm going to pick up an 81B filter since they aren't expensive to have. I'm not sure if I'll even take a 4x5 color shot but it would be nice to have if I do (and will probably take color with my Bronica for other parts of the trip). There I can also try multiple shots with and without the filter to gauge the impact without having to burn as many 4x5 sheets.
Kent, that's absolutely beautiful!!!!
Wilhelm (Sarasota)
I always carry 81B series filters with me with 81b being the one most used when shooting slides; but for me they are unnecessary with color negative film since I optically print and the color correction is better made with the enlarger.
Thomas
Back in the 1970s started photographing waterfalls in New England. Used a flatbed wooden B&J "Commercial" view with a 12" Wollensak Velostigmat lens. Camera, lens, holders, meter and more fit great inside a large basic backpack. Over the shoulder my B&J "Portable Studio Stand" (wooden leg basic tripod). Was young and hiking up small gorges was the norm.
Come sometime in the 1980s, switched over to a Rollei SL-66 with 40mm, 50mm, 80mm, and 120mm lenses. Then one time had the Rollei set up on a tripod and the quick release failed, and the camera slid off the tripod into the water. Rollei got the camera to work again but the repair bill forced me to sell the equipment.
Recently started to photograph waterfalls once again, but turned 70 last year and legs were seriously hurt in an accident. Had to really pair down on my equipment. Final prints are Platinum/Palladium made from digital negatives. Considered shooting 120 and 4x5 and scanning the negatives, but in the end opted for a Nikon D850 with 14-24mm and 24-120mm Nikkors. Had considered using only a 24mm PC-E Nikkor, but just preferred having more focal lengths to choose from in the end. And using the Focus Stacking feature in the D850, enabled me to not need a lens tilt for certain scenes. Was skeptical of using the Focus Stacking feature, but worked out fine on the few times I have used it. From my experiences so far this year, Made the right decision. Tripod is attached to a Lowe Pro backpack which leaves me free to use a walking stick. Walking sticks are simple, being cut from young sapling trees. Have a bunch of them and it's common for me to leave one at the trailhead when hiking out.
For the times I don't have to hike up to photograph a waterfall and can set up the camera close to the vehicle, I use my Whole Plate Chamonix with various lenses, scan the negatives later. Honestly prefer this set up to the Nikon D850, but transporting the equipment for any distance just not possible.
attached image taken with the D850 with a very long exposure at dusk. Platinum/Palladium print from a digital negative.
Well Greg I have to say this is pretty nice. Bet it is gorgeous close up as well.
--- Steve from Missouri ---
Thomas - what color neg film are you referring to? Portra films are artificially warmed to a certain extent because they're basically aimed at the portrait market. Neglect a warming filter with Ektar, however, and no, you're not going to be able to correct things afterwards. You'll get an overlap on parts of the dye curves which are impossible to clean up by ordinary means. With Ektar, this usually affects the reproduction of blue hues, whereas with traditional color neg films, it is difficult to resolve yellows and oranges from one another - all those warming hues want to go "skintone". Ektar is therefore more accurate for most outdoor colors, esp earthtones, but does require warming filtration under bluish illumination.
Thanks for the heads-up Drew. I haven't shot Ektar yet but was planning on shortly.
Thomas
Living in the NW I have always used a B+W KR 1.5 with Provia. Unless you are planning on making C Prints, why would anyone shoot a neg film and have to work with the issues associated with film base during scanning. BEFORE you start the hike, go to the east end of the falls area and look at oneita gorge. I agree with the others, "Wide" a 90 and a 135 and good chance the later won't be used. In most shots, stuff will be close enough long lenses just work you get the DOF.
What is scanning? Anyway, the best transparency films are already gone, and the little that's left could go next. The last time I was at Oneonta Gorge I shot 8x10 Astia 100F, which was just about ideal for the contrast range, and has a dimensionally stable polyester base much better suited for mask registration purposes than Provia, which is on unstable acetate. More accurate color too. But with the demise of Cibachrome, I made a contact interneg of one of those shots so I could print it RA4 paper. It's windy in that narrow gorge lots of the time, so a slightly rainy day helps; it also helps soften the light if you are shooting chromes. Nowadays I'd select Ektar color neg, properly filtered; and yes, that KR 1.5 would be a good choice for it too.
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