TF-4 vs. TF-5 for FP4+ Developed in Pyrocat HD?

[Drew Wiley]

Particles? I've been using TF4 for both film and paper for many years in numerous developers with no problems whatsoever. You do need to gently shake the
the bottle before pouring the stock solution to be diluted. And with new bottles, you might need to use a stir stick first. That is the only nuisance issue I can think of. If you are losing bits of emulsion, either you are developing way too warm, or else you're film is very old. Of course, I'm assuming you've correctly diluted the TF4 and are not using the concentrate directly. Always dilute and mix just enough concentrate immediately prior to the work session. If settling occurs during that, just gently agitate your bottles or trays right before the film goes to the fixer. I usually give TF4 a tiny swish just before pulling film from
the stop bath, which should be mild to prevent offsetting the alkalinity of the TF4. But I have no background with TF5. Why not just call the chemist at
Formulary?

[tuco]

I started using TF-4 with my pyro developer in the mid 90s, I switched to TF-5 for its odorless attribute. But TF-5 will smell a little when it gets near to exhaustion.

[Gary L. Quay]

I have been using TF-5 for PMK and 510-Pyro lately, and I have noticed that I am not getting good stain a lot of the time. I use a fresh water stop. I noticed that the fixer has a light yellow tint when I pour it back into the jug. Could this be the pyro stain being removed by the fixer? Does TF-4 work better for pyro?

Thanks!

[Alan9940]

I have been using TF-5 for PMK and 510-Pyro lately, and I have noticed that I am not getting good stain a lot of the time. I use a fresh water stop. I noticed that the fixer has a light yellow tint when I pour it back into the jug. Could this be the pyro stain being removed by the fixer? Does TF-4 work better for pyro?

Thanks!

I always had a bit of yellow tint in both TF-4 and TF-5 from stained negatives. Recently, I've returned to F-24 (which Gordon Hutchings mentions in his book) and the "yellow tint effect" is gone. Not sure what this means, exactly, but thought I'd mention it.

[Michael R]

I have been using TF-5 for PMK and 510-Pyro lately, and I have noticed that I am not getting good stain a lot of the time. I use a fresh water stop. I noticed that the fixer has a light yellow tint when I pour it back into the jug. Could this be the pyro stain being removed by the fixer? Does TF-4 work better for pyro?

Thanks!

No.

[Drew Wiley]

I used both in parallel over the summer, and now have switched over to TF5 entirely. I see no difference whatsoever in the pyro negs. And why would anyone pour spent fixer back into the jug? Or why would you omit a real stop bath?

[paulbarden]

I use PMK and Pyrocat HD, and have used both of those fixers and never had an issue with the fixer stripping off stain. In fact, I am developing HP5 and FP4 this afternoon, using PMK and TF-4, without issue.

[Fred L]

I used both in parallel over the summer, and now have switched over to TF5 entirely. I see no difference whatsoever in the pyro negs. And why would anyone pour spent fixer back into the jug? Or why would you omit a real stop bath?

I'm guessing I'm not the only one, but I make up 2 litres of working TF-5 and run that for less than the recommended number of rolls/sq inches of film before sending to the silver recovery. Nothing gets dumped back in with the concentrate. Crossed wires maybe ?

[jp]

I've used both fixers with fp4+and tmy2, with pyrocat hdc, hd, pmk. Never a problem.
Don't recommend using the same solution for film and paper in case dust/paper fibers end up in the tray, it won't affect your film originals. Use clean fixer for film that isn't used for anything else.
It's quite re-usable and I use it till it slows down a bit at clearing film scraps. I use water for stop bath; a couple rinses for film, and frequently changed water for paper

[Doremus Scudder]

The yellow tint you are seeing is not stain being stripped from the negative, it is simply carried-over developer oxidizing in the fix. A real stop bath and a water rinse (not really necessary) will prevent this, but it's not damaging to the fix.

If you are using hypo clear on your negatives, that's a possible source of your problem. Hutchings recommends not using a wash aid on pyro negatives. I haven't really tested it, though. I simply develop, stop, fix, rinse and wash for 30 minutes. Never a problem and always good stain.

Best,

Doremus