Lee filters with LF lenses and ultra long exposures

[Tim V]

Hi guys,

I'm building up to a project where I plan to use my 8x10" camera with stacked Lee ND filters to make exposures over the course of an entire days worth of light.

Unfortunately I don't have my lenses in front of me to mention specifically their filter thread diameter (I've got a 210mm G-Claron dagor type, and 12" Goerz Dagor AM Opt. Co. non-gold dot/rim), but I'm wondering if people out there could advise on what filter holder systems they use on such lenses or similar? From memory, the filter thread on my G-Claron is quite small and, unless I'm mistaken, Lee don't seem to make an adaptor for diameters smaller than 43mm that is recommended for wide lenses (shorter than 24mm equiv. or lenses with large IC where movements are to be used.) Can't remember if the G-Claron is smaller or than or not... Anyway...

I have the Lee Universal Lens Hood with integrated holder and love it – have used it for years with my Linhof Techno setup – so am hoping to stick with that for use with the 8x10" stuff.

Anyone out there got advise on the above, or the logistics / pitfalls / considerations when making ultra long exposures with LF gear? I'm thinking the two biggest battles with be predicting reciprocity failure / exposure times, and unexpected light leaks.

Thanks in advance,

Tim

[Tobias Key]

I am dabbling with ND's too. I plumped for standardising on 77mm screw in filters and use step up rings as necessary, mainly because I have a Toyo compendium hood and a Lee filter holder doesn't fit into it very well. There are lot of videos online giving tips on using nd's with DSLRs and the main thing that they all seem to emphasise is blocking extraneous light entering between multiple stacked filters in square filter systems. Other than that the main thing I have been wary of is LF's greater vulnerability to vibration and wind and the possiblity of light leaks that only become apparent in long exposures. I wrap my camera in my darkcloth and use a bag bellows which I hope is less likely to have any small pinhole leaks.

I have only gone as far as the several minute mark and I had one exposure ruined because halfway through it a ferry passed 100 yards to my left and vibrated the hell out of the camera. I forgot to look behind me before making the shot. If you want to expose images for a whole day you are going to need to shield the camera against changes in the weather.

Would it make sense to pitch a tent and then set up the camera inside it so you were shielded from wind, rain or even excessive sun beating down on the camera or lenses?

[Jim Jones]

Rather than stack filters, consider using a single filter with appropriate density such as those used by astronomers for solar photography.

[John Kasaian]

For years I got by with 4x4 Lee filters, which I inserted in a Lee gel snap filter holder which used a thick rubber band(like what asparagus comes bundled in---learn to love asparagus if you don't already) to attach to unthreaded lenses as large as a 14" Commercial Ektar. It can stack up to four filters
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Filters-G...+filter+holder

It's cheap! It works! And it's cheap.
Besides you'll learn new ways for preparing asparagus---a win-win, right?

[Doremus Scudder]

Whatever filter system you come up with, make sure that it is light-tight around the outside edges. With such long exposures, any little bit of light sneaking in a crack or edge can cause more fogging than you'd like.

I second the idea to find one filter that will do the job. In any case, keep the number of filters you use to a minimum to keep stray light from having more surfaces to bounce around on.

As far as exposure goes: you'll likely have to do a lot of testing, but if you use a material that has a few stops of overexposure latitude, you'll at least have some leeway. Once you get out to six hours, a twelve-hour exposure is only one stop overexposed (less than that even, due to reciprocity failure). 24 hours would only be two stops. I print negs intentionally overexposed by two stops all the time with great results.

Development may have to be adjusted for long exposures as well, but that's another thread

Best,

Doremus

[Drew Wiley]

Expect some loss of sharpness with stacked filters, esp plastic ones.

[cdavis324]

Easiest thing to do is use a Lee gel snap and wratten filters inside the bellows. That way you don’t have to worry about flare from the filter.

If you really want to put filters in front of the lens, look into the wine country holder or something... unless you want to use a ton of tape.

Either way, black tape is your friend.

There was a Korean artist who made photographs that were a full day. I can’t remember his name, but he did a project with ice sculptures as well. He used welding filters inside the camera(from what I remember). It was at least 10 years ago that I saw it.


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[Lachlan 717]

You don’t need anything as “aggressive” as tape. A simple strip of black foam will do the same and it is reusable.

Just slide it in/over/between where required.

[Mark Sampson]

Wrap your camera as well. I once tried an all-day exposure with two 4.0 ND filters- it was completely fogged. Never went back to it- and the next year I found my bellows had a pinhole in it. I'm thinking light will find leaks in your camera that would never register during a normal exposure time.

[RichSBV]

It might just be simpler and easier to use a pinhole instead of a lens!