Apparently you are not aware that machine shops do work for other people. They fabricate stuff to repair or replace missing parts. I don't understand why you are being so negative.Originally Posted by Jac@stafford.net
I certainly had no desire to get into an internet head butting contest over this so I will end my contributions to this thread. If the OP is interested in any info from me he can PM me.
I hope you all have as nice a day as I've had.
Show your work.
I am having a very fine sit in the Sun on my tiny veranda.
I DIY tons of stuff and got paid well for 30 years to do
so. Every job was custom.
I can run any tool in a shop, weld, saw and hack.
I won’t be making any C1 parts. I know them well. I have had and used 3. I suppose we could sand cast one...
Ok, despite the momentarily heated conversation I appreciate all of your responses.
I had actually considered fabricating something from wood akin to the sliding blocks seen on the 2D, Century View and the like employing some angle brackets and then coming up with something to screw/clamp the block to the rails. I was really just hoping that someone had faced this exact problem and come up with a brilliant solution. However, since I wouldn't see the camera until after it was shipped and I don't know anyone locally that has one to get a closer inspection of the rails I've decided to go with the advice of moving on to a different unit. The seller wasn't terribly responsive to my queries anyway so I suppose it's for the best.
The search continues...
My apologies OP. I wanted to derail a disaster and here in pictures is why. I forgot I had a clear shot of a C1 slider from the one I sold last month. A Green Monster made from Magnesium and painted green! Karsh used a white one. Custom I suppose. Later they were made from aluminum, some green and the rest black. Green does not denote magnesium.
First up is the object in question. It has a large flat bottom maybe 5X6". Here it is bolted to a 6X7" Majestic Head with the 3/8-16 hole, never the 1/4-20 hole which strips in all 3 I have seen.
Notice that plate and the whole bottom of the camera is minimal in design. Just enough to make it all work and work well it does.
The OOF close silver knob is one of 2 clamping the entire upper camera to a very thin folded spring steel rail. The shapr edge of the fold fits in a groove on the slider. In use you are constanly using this adjustment to balance the camera once you reach focus extension.
Pic 2 shows how the back slides on this perfectly made spring steel.
As a tailboard camera, the front does not move forward or back.
I am including 3 pics I used in my sale.
DSC_0386 by TIN CAN COLLEGE, on Flickr
DSC_0389 by TIN CAN COLLEGE, on Flickr
DSC_0385 by TIN CAN COLLEGE, on Flickr
Great stuff, Randy Moe. Many thanks.
I agree with Joe, great stuff Randy Moe. These really help me see exactly how the block functions on this camera. Thank you for posting these I can easily see how trying to rig anything onto the C1 frame would be an iffy proposition at best.
I will retire from this thread with three comments regarding the C1: First as has become clear, the base mount is critical and gosh only knows how one could be lost, possibly with greater collateral loss; Second, not all green C1s are the lighter magnesium bodies, and finally a complete C1 is an awesome stable platform which requires some special patience to carry into the field.
Hang in there if you want a C1. They only become more affordable.
--
Jac
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